In article jMaic.11707$IW1.749429@attbi_s52,
"Jay Honeck" wrote:

One disadvantage of Imron and other polyurethane paints is they have
hardener. So there is no way to have a paint shop put the paint in a
small aerosol can and use it periodically to paint your chips,
scratches etc. If you did this, it would harden.

No, but you can get the paint and the hardener separate for a good long
time.

When you need to touch up some dings, just mix a small amount and have at
it, using an artist's brush.

Just beware of the toxicity of the stuff.

After you touch it up, you CAN work it the same way you do with lacquer.
I have even removed runs and sags.

All you have to do is:

1. Wet (LOTS of water) sand the sag or run with #320 until the sag is
gone

2. Wet sand with #600 to remove the #320 scratches

3. Wet sand with #1200. then #2000 to remove remaining scratches

4. Polish with 3M rubbing compound.

5. Polish with 3M Finesse It.

6. Polish with 3M Prefect It.

7. Wax with a good Carnauba wax.

An old friend who used to be a big Ford dealer taught me the above
system. Steps 4-6 can be either done by hand (very small areas) or
machine rubbed in 2 ft square sections.

I have a Makita sander, which I set to the lowest RPM setting, or you
can burn the paint.

The above system can make an Imron (or Alumigrip or PPG) paint job look
like hand-rubbed lacquer.

Another useful item is an airbrush with a regulator at the gun hose, to
prevent line losses.

As for paint preferences, I have used Imron, PPG, Alumigrip and Finch.
They all work well -- the secret is in preparation. Contaminents can
result in corrosion or poor adhesion.