I got my C-90 back from a major a few weeks ago. I had originally considered
doing the work myself, under the supervision of a certified guy. Since he's
~70 miles away, and I really wouldn't save a heap o' cash, I just dropped it
off at the shop.

Between the two guys working on it, they had a total of just over 30 hours
labor in it. I wouldn't have though it to be that high. Had I been there, I
could have done some of the grunt work - cleaning parts, etc. Maybe could
have saved a few hundred greenbacks.

I have built all the baffling for it, though. That, as was said, is a
time-consuming pain in the rear, even with the old pieces as a pattern. I
also welded new flanges on the exhaust stacks, installed the oil filter
adapter, had the starter & generator overhauled (local auto shop), and will
install the carb & intake stuff when I get it back. I hung the engine on the
airframe, and am doing all the hook-ups (except the mags, which need to be
timed).

I have about $8500-8800 in it, thus far. The crankcase and acc'y case were
both replaced; the acc'y case was new from Continental.

Anyone out there have a prop for a C-90? I need either a Sens. 76AK-2-xx
(prefer a 44 pitch) or a W72GK-4x (46, maybe?). The engine's hanging on a
Champion 7FC/EC.

Jon

" jls" wrote in message
...

"Kyle Boatright" wrote in message
...

"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in
message


news
..
In article ,
Greg Copeland wrote:

I'm just curious about rebuilding an aircraft engine. If you can
rebuild
automotive engines, will an aircraft engine be a no brainer? Are
special
tools often required?

Does anyone know of any good websites that do a walk through of the
process. Not that I'm planning on doing it, let alone via website
instructions, but I am intersted in learned more about the process
and
the
associated costs. In the, "O-320 Engine Costs - 172", thread, I see
some
costs were fairly well layed out. Information like like that, helps
fuel
the dream of ownership one day, by allowing us to better understand
the
complete lifecycle costs associated with ownership.


Thanks,

Greg Copeland


You really need the Lycoming Overhaul Manual, which lists tolerances,
torques, etc. for all Lycoming opposed engines. Then get to be friends
with an A&P mechanic, who is willing to supervise your work.

Some work is best farmed out, like cams, crank regrinding and
checking,
etc.

Agreed.

In addition, once you buy all the little yellow tags that come with
inspected and "guaranteed to meet the spec" parts, the assembly of a
Lycoming is relatively simple. Probably a two evening job for you and
someone who's done it before and will be comfortable looking over your
shoulder and signing paperwork. On the other hand, once you've bought
all
the little yellow tags, having a professional assemble the thing for you
only adds about $500 to the cost.

It probably takes an A/P more time to box all the re-certifiable parts,
ship
'em, and deal with the engine part shops than it would take him to
rebuild
the engine. He's gonna charge you for that time too. The thing is, he
probably gets a discount from the engine part shops and his $500 in
time/labor for dealing with the shops is probably a wash to you if he
passes
along his discount from the engine part shops.

Installing the rebuilt engine is actually more work than assembling it.
You've gotta fix/fit baffles, install (replace/repair?) an exhaust,
attach
(rebuild?) the carb, plumb the carb, attach (replace?) push-pull's,
install
(overhaul/replace?) and time the mag's, install the starter, plumb an
oil
cooler, etc, etc, etc... Then you get to attach the prop, run it up,
check
for leaks (you did add oil, right?), and re-cowl it.

Beating a dead horse here, but the actual assembling of the engine isn't
the
hard part, nor does it consume very much time in the scheme of things.

KB

Excellent. I just did it for the 7th or 8th time, this time on an O-300,
and the bafflling and seals are what took the most bothersome time. It
was
just a top, though. Then there was a lifter that gave me hell because I
couldn't get the little circlip out holding the hydraulic unit in. Gotta
check out those dry valve clearances and to do that you have to collapse
the
hydraulic units.

I remember seeing an interesting site where a first-time engine rebuilder
did a major on his IO-360 Continental he installed in a Globe Swift.
Under
the helpful watch of a friendly A&P, nacherly. Googling should bring it
up.
The Swifters also have a great website with lots of interesting tech info
on
engines for the Swifts, including Lycs.

Some "mechanics" try to wedge and bang Lyc case halves apart. I don't
like
that idea. The case should be gingerly "pressed apart" with the special
tool made for the purpose. Course, with some heavy aluminum plates and
3/4
inch threaded rod you can make your own tool for the purpose.