I have been making molds an fiberglass parts for nearly 30 years and have
never had a part stick in the mold. I use a good paste wax to wax up the
mold. After that I use a product called Partall wax. Partall can be found on
the internet or at your local supplier. I live in St. Louis so it is not a
problem. I usually put 2 coats of the partall wax, let dry, and buff off.
Lastly I use Partall #10 which is a liquid spray on application using the
cheapest spray gun you have. Usually 2 coats sometimes 3 will do. It is
cleaned up with warm water. After the partall dries you can apply you
gelcoat and fiberglass. After the part has cured use compressed air if your
part is in tight. But I have never had the fiberglass stick to the mold. I
have made some mighty tight molds but the parts always come out with a
little air and patience. In some recent fenders I drilled 2 holes in the
center of the mold then repaired the holes with modeling clay. The resin
will not stick to the clay. After the part is done I use compressed air to
blow the clay out and loosen the part. The partall can be washed out with
warm water as it disolves easily. I am no means an expert but this is what I
do.

Sincerely

Fred Stewart
http://www.phatfreddies.com
http://www.mini500.com


"B Lacovara" wrote in message
...
Mark,

Lot's of advice so far... and all of it bad. From someone in the
composites
industry, there are serious drawbacks with each homebrew "mold release"
material mentioned, except PVA. Find the local FRP materials supplier and
get a
can of basic mold release paste wax. It makes no sense to invest all the
time
and effort in your project and then try to save $7 by using some doubtful
concoction for mold release.

Bob