View Single Post
  #11  
Old May 7th 05, 05:53 AM
Clyde Woempner
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On my clock, Cessna p/n C-664-08-0101 It has a contact points and a solenoid
inside. The points come together and the solenoid will the ratchet a spring
loaded gear and open the points at the same time. The spring pulls the gear
around, which drives the clock till the points make contact again. This
process is repeated each minute. There is no motor and current draw is only
while the points are closed and the solenoid is energized. My .02 cents
worth. Hope this helps. A story concerning fuse replacement, I suggest you
not guess at the fuse. The circuit is hot at all times (master off) in
order for the clock to work. In 1964 my friend and I was using his Dad' new
Chevy pickup. One night the dash lights failed (it had nothing to do with
the girls we had with us) and the tail lights and dash lights are on the
same fuse. We had taken the vehicle to our local garage, and they replaced
the fuse. The next morning the inside of the pickup was on fire, the
vehicle was a total lost. The insurance company, stated that this was a
common fault with the wiring on this model vehicle and just bought a new
one. I had noted that the replacement fuse was .25 amps larger than the
original. The mechanic stated, if you have a short it will blow. The fuse
had not blown, the red wire from the battery + post going into the wiring
harness and through the firewall had melted. The fire had started under the
dash. Lesson well learned.
Clyde

"George Patterson" wrote in message
news:zxNee.56$Dn.52@trndny02...
nrp wrote:
I suggest 1 Amp as the OEM clock is an occasional very short but sharp
current pulse type of load.


Say what? It's got a little motor in it. Current draw is constant.

George Patterson
There's plenty of room for all of God's creatures. Right next to the
mashed potatoes.