Eric Greenwell wrote:
309 wrote:
I've had other cameras that
had efficient infra red auto focus mechanisms: they focused perfectly
on the INSIDE of the plexiglass!
How well does the infrared remote control work, or haven't you tried it
out on a wing tip?
The remote works well on the ground...I haven't tried it in the air.
I'm told other folks have had reasonable success with tip mounted
cameras & remotes. There was an article in Soaring 5 or 6 years ago on
building a camera mount and remote, solenoid operated trigger; it was
mounted on a 1-36.
I was referrring to the focusing mechanism, nowadays it's usually an
infrared beam that the camera uses to measure distance. If you fail to
disable this "feature," the camera will detect the INSIDE of your
canopy, and focus on that, rather than the other glider 75 feet away
(effectively infinity).
By setting the focus on "infinity," (or sometimes referred to as
"landscape mode"), you tell the camera to look through the
(plexi)glass. Practice this by taking pictures through a window or
screen door. You'll notice the difference (not that I have a screen
door on my 1-26 Sports Canopy...).
A camera with programmable custom modes (like the Canon G6, which C1
and C2 modes that be programmed virtually any way you want), you can
set speed, aperture, focus, etc., in advance so you don't need to mess
with that while trying to remember how to fly. FWIW, I set the C1 mode
to wide angle, infinity focus (I forget the other settings), and C2 to
maximum zoom with infinity focus. This way, I can turn it on and it
quickly will be at the settings I need for a close up formation shot,
or a far off one.
A bunch of my air-to-air photograhpy is visible on the 1-26 Association
Photo Gallery
http://www.126association.org/images.htm
There are many pix there from other photoraphers, too.
Be careful when doing this...flying formation can get
dangerous...especially when one (or both) of you is looking through a
viewfinder...nevermind flying left handed. Talking to one another is
very wise.
-Pete
#309