I've never encountered a protruding head screw that was too difficult
to get out using some method of cutting a slot or making some flat
areas so you can use a wrench as you say. Unless it was corroded along
the threads. I had to use a small file to make a slot in a spinner
screw several times (protruding head screw). I have twisted the head
off too many bolts. Don't remind me! But the problem here is usually
being able to get enough torque on the screw to remove it, as is often
the problem with countersunk screws. When the screw is located in thin
aluminum sheet as is often the case on aircraft, using a dremel around
the head of the screw is not an option! In my opinion, removing stuck
or broken screws is the toughest job a mechanic faces.

Bud


wrote:
After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
to twist the head off!
Then you will need the extractors.

I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
the screw then take it
out with a vice grip.

Bill Hale


wrote:
I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike