Jay Honeck wrote:

Setting up the over-lap between the screens so that it doesn't look
weird must be a tricky affair, indeed.

Sorry abbout piggy-backing this on Margy - Jay's post was gone.

You could see where the projector's image ends on the screen and mask and
paint a thin black line on the screen. That would make overlap a non issue,
and be a minimal distraction. That would be the easy way out.

(Gears turning...where can I mount a curved screen? Whey can I even
*buy* a curved screen? :-)

Get some bulk screen material, and sew a flap on the bottom and the top of
the material. Get some thin wall electrical conduit, and bend the
appropriate radius in the tube, with a top and bottom matching tube. You
would want to weld the joints, instead of using a connector. If you weld it
yourself, be sure to not breath the fumes, because the galvanized pipe
welding fumes will give you a very nasty headache, just for starts.

To mount it, make brackets to screw to the tubes, and fasten them on after
the screen has been streached on, so the screen will se the same tension
everywhere.

To make it somewhat portable, use some spreaders from the top to bottom
tube, mounted the same way, but mounted so they will be back away from the
screen. A mounting from the bottom to the floor could have some casters, so
you could roll it out of the way.

I'm not sure, but I think for the best results, a special lens would need to
be used, or a program to get the right aspect ration projected onto the
screen. Even then, I'm not so sure that it would be projected in focus
without a special lens, since the distance from the lens to a flat screen is
different (longer) at the sides of the picture as compared to the center of
the picture. With the curved screen, it would be the same distance on the
edges and the center.
--
Jim in NC