On Jan 10, 9:15*am, Gliderphud wrote:
On Jan 10, 7:32 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:





Just bought 2 gal of PPG Concept AU (over 3 gal when mixed) *Toyota
Super White 90288 and 2 gal of PCL Polyprimer
(white)...........................$1032.00 The control surfaces on the
DG-300 I'm rebuilding have been stripped, filled, sanded with 80g
followed be 220 dry and look good to go for painting. I use a 4 power
magnifying glass with a drop lite to spot anything I missed (old
eyes). The 80 grit scratches will disappear on the second coat and
will insure a good "tooth" is given to the paint which is important
anywhere you will be taping (wing roots).

One thing that hasen't been mentioned is a good water trap. All
compressors produce water and it must be trapped or your paint job
will be pock-marked with thousands of little craters caused when water
droplets form on the spray nozzle. I use a toilet-paper water trap and
it does the job, just replace the roll before each new
job...........................you can even dry out the old filter and
use it for its origional purpose!
Cheep-o, JJ

JJ,

What do you use to build up after removing the old gelcoat?

Why AU versus PU?

The PCL Polyprimer 907 white (PE) goes on smooth and contours easily
with 80 grit on a 18" rubber board. I spray on 1 coat over everything
and 2 coats over any repairs or known low areas after Gold Bond (new
Bondo type heavy filler) on and around the repair of the tail feathers
and flaps and ailerons. For the stripped fuselage and wings, I shoot
on 2 heavy coats and contour 45 left, then 45 right........Hopefully
without the need to re-prime any low areas. You can touch the glass,
but musn't keep sanding these areas or old Mr. pin-hole will rear his
ugly head. Best to stop, mark the low areas and shoot on another
primer coat. Before I start sanding the primer, I use body putty on
all the defects that show easily. Level the wing before starting to
contour, don't just use 2 saw horses..........you need a third one
about the inboard end of the aileron.
AU is the latest and greatest, not as soft as PU, but still softer
(more pliable) than gel-coat. I shoot about 4 coats or until I see
good orange-peal everywhere, the 4th coat may be a "leveling" coat
with a tad more thinner and the pressure dropped, fan open and gun
held 12" from the surface to "fog" on a leveling coat which will also
pick up a lot of the overspray. Wet sand it with 600W after 12 hours
while its quite easy, followed by 800W, then let it cure for 3 days
before buffing-out. I fog on a very thin lacquer coat that sits in the
orange-peal..................then 3M guide coat for the 800W.