On Aug 21, 10:16*am, 150flivver wrote:
On Aug 21, 8:32*am, mhorowit wrote:

I have to replace the trailing edge end of a stamped aluminum rib from
a '47 Tcraft. I've cut away the corroded portion, bent metal to
replace that part and would like to use Cherry "N" rivets to hold it
in place.

I have some questions regarding what spec to look for when ordering.
*A. *Rivet Material: 5052 Aluminum or 5056 - does it make any
difference for this old a rib?
*B. *Mandrel Material: Aluminum or steel - am I correct that
dissimilar metals could cause a problem and I should stick with
aluminum? In that case why make a steel mandrel?

Thanks in Advance - Mike

Is there some reason you can't use driven rivets?

Not really (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm stumbling around here)
except
A. "pop" rivets seem easier to apply
B. I don't have access to the "official" tools for setting either
standard or flat head rivets.
C. I could /might be able to set a flathead rivet but insuring the
shaft is perfectly in line with the driving pin could be a problem.
Open to suggestions - Mike