what you are describing is the 'preferred' puller. First make sure you are
using the correct length rivnut for the thickness material. Second, adjust
the tip on the end by scewing it in or out. Doing this will adjust the total
travel of the anvil, and this the total expansion of the rivnut. This is a
nice feature on this tool because, once set, it pulls a perfect rivnut every
time.

Screwing the tip out increases the throw, screwing it in decreases the
throw. If you are stripping riv nusts, you need to screw it in.
If possible, get a test piece the same thickness as your work and calibrate
the tool before you do the installation

Mike

"WhiteKnukles" wrote in message
...
Mike, the driver that I've used is very similar to the Pop rivet type that
is squeezed like a pair of pliers. I tend to squeeze as I would to set a
Pop
rivet, but with dire results. Is this the same type of tool that you refer
to as a "righteous puller"? It would seem that there needs to be some sort
of torque setting control, as there isn't much feel for when the nut is
set.
Jim
"mike" wrote in message
news:lzHkb.185359$%h1.175838@sccrnsc02...
depends on the puller - if you use the small one shaped like a top that
uses
the Allen key, you get a feel for it when the allen gets a smidgen
harder
to
turn. The more righteous pullers are the long ones with the pull handle
that quick threads the rivnut onto the tool before insertion. Those have
an
adjustable tip so you can pretty much calibrate the amount of pull on
the
rivnut. They are quite a bit faster too especilly if you have several to
pull

I think US Tool sells both types of pullers

Mike

"WhiteKnukles" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I've tried using rivnuts, but have ruined the threads on the tool
piece
each time. How does one know when enough force is used and not too
much?
Jim Burns
"mike" wrote in message
news:ZOfkb.812319$Ho3.221284@sccrnsc03...
Rivnuts when installed correctly, will draw up and expand only on
the
portion protruding thru the opposite side of the material. Works
great
for
installation into most hard or rigid materials and like rivets, come
in
varying lengths to accomodate material thickness. Anti rotation
device
is
a
provided by a notch in the hole that "keys" the fastener.

Nutserts (not nut plates) are not as commmonly used on the other
hand
expand
along the entirel ength of the sert, and is more conducive to
aplications
in
soft materials such as honeycomb, fiberboard, etc. I have seen them
simply
epoxy potted in place on honeycomb and other laminated material.
Anti
rotation device is provided by a serrations around the circumference
edge
which makes hole size and depth critical

I dont believe EITHER of these is considered to be a structural
fastener
and
both are problematic when they become loose.

Hope this helps
Mike in Dallas

"John Talbert" wrote in message
...
Can someone give a brief description of the differences of the
two?
When
one would be used instead of the other?