chris wrote:
I used a 1 lb /.45kg hammer and hit both brake mounting plates before
7am to the neigbors delight. The first side released after hammering.
The second side was harder, I hammered but it did not release until
after rolling the trailer back and forth. The top shoe was jamming on
that side. I could see that the lower shoe was not in contact with
the drum.

All in all it turned out to be just a few minutes and all is good
now. I did not have to jack up the trailer or take the wheels off.
Thankfully I got lots of good advice from RAS.
I should get better gas mileage with wheels that turn.

Good to hear that it worked out well.


The trailer has been sheltered from rain. All this rusting must have
just been from 2 months humidity [in ample supply].

I did not find a slot to adjust a star wheel. I have done that on
cars in the past so I know what to look for. This design has 2 slots
but they are for the spring to hook through.

I never did figure out what the bolt was for, shown in the 2 o'clock
position in the photo:

http://gliderpilot.org/Temporary

nice shot. Your brake seems to be in a very good state, compared to
others I have seen here in Germany.

You have KNOTT brake. The bolt opposite the cable inlet is for adjusting
the brake, e.g. to compensate for pad wear. It has the same function as
the star wheel used on other types.

The instructions (partly) from KNOTT to do the adjustments are as follows:

Make sure that the rod and cables are under no tension.

Turn the adjustment bolt clockwise until the wheel cannot be turned any
more or turns very hard. (Turn the wheel only in Forward direction, as
the brake loosens itself automatically when turning the wheel backwards)

Then loosen approx. 1/2 turn counter-clockwise until the wheel turns
free again. a slight scratching noise doesn't harm,

A complete inscruction as well as diagrams of the inside ofthe brake can
be found here (only german, I'm afraid):

http://www.boeckmann.com/pferdeanhae...ein_66564.html

Peter Scholz
ASW24 JE



On both sides there were small viewing holes to see if the shoe was in
contact with the drum [shown in the 10 & 5 o'clock position]

I suppose I should soon take the drums off and lubricate the sides of
the shoes/mechanism [not the face that touches the drum].
I don't know if the mechanism or the face of the shoe and the drum
surface that rusted together.

Thanks guys!
Chris