On Jul 14, 4:16*pm, Ventus_a
wrote:
'Eric Greenwell[_4_ Wrote:









;777009']On 7/13/2011 7:42 PM, Frank Paynter wrote:-
Evan Ludeman (T8) took this video of me assembling my Ventus 2bx at
Wurtsboro last week, using my el-cheapo single-rig system. *The video
has not been edited in any way, and assembly that morning was actually
a little slower than usual ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRipsiPgdk-

Very nice! But why do you put the gear down before rigging? Wouldn't it
be easier if the fuselage was lowered as much as possible?

Also, with the hydraulic jack, there is the possibility it will leak
down (or someone will accidentally trip/kick the release lever) before a

wing is on it, and let the fuselage tip over.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)
- "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm
http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl

Pretty slick Frank

Further to Eric's point about leaving the wheel up, I use the jack to
raise or lower the fuse for final wing alignment on my Nimbus3D. Saves
walking out and adjusting the wing stands and the main pin goes in real
easy. *I also put the left wing in first so the partially inserted pin
keeps the wing in place

Cheers
Colin

--
Ventus_a

To reply to several people at once:

- I started out putting the left wing in first, but found that the
spar kept slipping backwards into the space where the right wing spar
comes through. This meant I had to iterate several times out to the
left wingtip and back to get it fully inserted, and it was apparent
that there was a significant danger of the left wing coming off its
stand during this operation. Putting the right wing on first
completely eliminates this problem at the cost of not being able to
half-pin the right wing before putting the left one one. Believe me,
I tried this both ways many times and am convinced the right wing
first method is much faster and much safer.

I put the gear down because that gives me a good calibration of the
fuselage height off the ground (about 1/2 inch clearance of the wheel
is what I'm after). I agree there is a slight possibility of the
hydraulic jack leaking down, so by all rights I should put the gear
down for height calibration, and then put it right back up again - I'm
just too lazy

The material inside the carpet roll is common 6" or 8" corrugated
drain tubing, available in 12' lengths from Lowes or Home Depot.

regarding gravel surfaces - that's no problem as the wingtips are
held several inches off the ground, and the carpet roll still works
fine. The nice thing about the carpet is even if it doesn't roll
(uneven ground), the wingtip will still slide on it. I've used this
on all sorts of surfaces (dirt, concrete, grass, gravel) and it works
great.

TA