Good advise from JJ, on one occasion when I had my Std Cirrus one control
connection jammed half way on a ball end when assembling, it would not go
fully on and it wouldn’t come off, may have been a foreign matter, dust
etc contaminating it, operating the control while applying pressure got it
off.
So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)
spray the oil on a finger then apply to the ball end before assembly, never
had any problem after that.


At 03:26 08 March 2016, Charlie M. UH & 002 owner/pilot wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a
=E9crit=A0:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is
stil=
l something I'm considering.
=20
Thanks.
-Dirk
=20
Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but
m=
y IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard
and=
put up wet. =20
=20
In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves
on
=
the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons
ar=
e easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted
and=
GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart
withou=
t damage.
=20
=20
The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100=B0C, it will
come
=
apart easily.
=20
I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?
=20
Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push
rods=
when heating?
=20
Kevin

If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the
glue=
and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of
chang=
ing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling"
industrial=
heat gun.
No torches needed.......