The HPH Shark gliders have a Berringer tubeless wheel with Disc brake.
Until recently, I was the UK agent and have imported ~30 gliders. None
have suffered from problems with the tubeless wheel over 6 years. I'm
not sure that gliders with tubes could post such a good record. Only one
glider which landed very heavily in soft ground had mud between the
tyre and the Rim and would slowly go down. I stripped the wheel and
cleaned it and it has been fine ever since. I have the special jig but have

to say that there is really no problem reassembling the wheel if you are
a practical type. If the O-Ring is undamaged, I think it can be lightly
greased and used again... I keep a spare just in case...

The Brake system is very good but must be free from air. I also suspect
that the overpressure regulator in the system can be responsible for
braking which is OK but not stunning.

I have fitted a Beringer system to a Pegase and that went really well and
provided a really good soluition... I have photos if anybody wants to
upgrade their glider... I don't know about the Tost solution...

Craig Lowrie, UK

At 03:53 19 October 2017, wrote:
On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 6:30:06 PM UTC-7, Michael Opitz
wrote:
At 20:32 18 October 2017, wrote:
Has anyone ever got a hydraulic Tost disk brake to work WELL on
a
Ventus
2C=
M? I'm convinced I've bled my brakes as well as they can be bled,
and
STILL=
the braking is very weak. I get some small braking action, but
nowhere
ne=
ar being able to put the glider on its nose, or flat-spot the tire. I
can
s=
low down for a taxiway turn off, so long as its well ahead, but not
enough
=
to help on a short runway, or enough for a real emergency stop. I
suspect
=
the wire cable between the control stick and the cylinder under the
seat
mu=
st be stretching. I may try a thicker cable (I'm experimental).


I have a Discus-2b with the factory Tost 5" wheel also. We had real
problems bleeding all of the air out of the line. Biggo at the factory

even sent me a pdf file with pictures in order to do it correctly from
the bottom. It was a real bear to get all of the air out. Also,
adjusting the cable/brake handle so that there is no play helps a lot.

Finally, get a new brake pad even if the old one looks OK. The new
one will be thicker, so the caliper won't have to squeeze over as
great a distance to apply pressure. All of these items add up.

RO

michael, can you post the pdf? I'm convinced I've done everything
possible
regarding bleeding, but still don't have good braking. So I don't expect
it
will help, but I'm desperate now. thanks.