"JJ Sinclair" wrote in message
...

Any useful insights folks?

Bill, I have seen 3 little holes drilled at 120 degrees around that shaft.
Then
with a micro-grease gun, grease is forced into and around the shaft. Works
for
a few flights. The alternative is, as you say, to open the wing. I would
go
with the above, as you will find an awful mess inside the wing consisting
of
rusted spring, rotted off rubber boot and no real fix to your problems. If
memory serves me, there is a brass sleeve in the root rib, which is now
too
loose------new oversized shaft? Wait how long for one of those? Pay
someone to
open your wing, fix things, close wing.

Honey, where's my micro-grease gun?
JJ Sinclair

Thanks, JJ but I solved the mystery.

I was suspicious of the water tank integrity from the beginning and this led
me down the wrong path. I had found water in the fuselage after the first
flight with the ballast tanks filled and jumped to the conclusion that I had
a leak. The radial play in the shafts added to the confusion. This was
re-enforced by the fact that the flapper valves leaked profusely when the
tanks were first filled.

Silicone grease smeared on the valves then pulling them closed with the tail
rigging tool fixed this leak but I continued to suspect the shaft seals.
BTW, the valve closing springs are on the outside where they can be adjusted
or replaced - neat!

I just completed a intensive leak check of the wing tanks and they are fine
with no leaks at the shafts or anywhere else. However the tests make it is
clear that any water spilled on the top surface of the wing will run into
the gap seals and then to the fuselage at the flap torque tube where it
pours into the fuselage. I'm now sure that's where the water in the
fuselage came from.

I will have to be really careful while filling the ballast tanks not to
spill any water on the wing. Every drop goes right into the gap seals.

Bill Daniels