I forgot, I did jumper the power supply directly to the motor...it does
run forward...switch two wires of the 3 phase and it runs in reverse.

"Bruce A. Frank" wrote:

That is the way to go. I am somewhat intimidated by what I see and am
not sure what some of the switches do. But you are absolutely correct.
All of it can be controlled with the drum switch to reverse the motor
and the pump by pulling from a leg of the power circuit. Heck, I am not
above running a separate cord to the wall for the coolant pump. Thanks
for making me focus.

sidk wrote:

Bruce,
If it were mine I would forget about trying to fix the old wiring. I
would rip it all out and start new using SSRs (Solid State Relays)
which are relatively cheap.
So, what is to operate?
1) the rotary converter.
2) switching on the 3-phase lathe motor after the converter is
running.
3) Lights
4) Cutting-oil/coolant pump
5) ? whatever else....?

The transformer is probably simply to provide 115V for the pump,
light, and relay coils. You will already have 115V available as half
of your 230.
Compared to aircraft wiring, this is rather basic.

An additional thought... Why the burned up relay??
It could be that the 3-phase motor is NFG. Or a short in the wiring
somewhere.
It might be worth your time and effort to just "haywire" only the
converter and motor together (isolated from any "original" wiring) on
a temporary basis to determine if the thing will run. If it does, then
build up from there.

Sid Knox
Velocity N199RS
Starduster N666SK
KR2 N24TC
W7QJQ
--
Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL
Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter"
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