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Old February 28th 07, 08:06 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
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Default Cylinders and corosion

On Feb 28, 9:10Â*am, "jl" wrote:
On Feb 28, 9:11Â*am, "Denny" wrote:





On Feb 28, 7:35Â*am, "jl" wrote:


On Feb 28, 5:33Â*am, Philippe Vessaire wrote:


Hello,


What are the best corosion resistant cylinder for O200 engine?
Â*genuine TCM
Â*ECI-Titan
Â*Millennium Cylinders from Superior airparts.
any other I don't know...


Thanks
--
Minicab F-PRAZ
Â* Â* Philippe Vessaire Â*Ò¿Ó¬


I don't know that there would be any difference in corrosion
resistance for steel cylinders.


You might try one of the proprietary liners like nikasil or nuchrome.


Be careful, though. Â*Thousands of people were burned by ECI on
cermichrome cylinders.


OTOH, I put 900 hours on my Cermichromes and loved them... They were
still going strong when I sold the plane...


denny


Lycoming cylinders, then, cause I've never heard of cylinders lasting
that long on a Continental, and every cermichrome I've ever known of
either died at 100 to 200 hours, or had to be honed to get to 300.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It'll depend some on the cylinder finish, whether it's plain steel,
chromed or otherwise. The biggest factor in corrosion is the amount of
moisture allowed to develop in the crankcase. Short flights,
especially in cooler weather, will leave water in the case that
condenses from water vapor in blowby gases, and that water will cause
rusting and will also mix with sulphur and chlorine compounds in the
oil and form acids that eat everything, not just cylinders. An
airplane needs to be flown until the oil temp reaches 180°F and held
there for 30 or 40 minutes, at least, to get rid of that moisture.
That's tough to get in some airplanes. We have a Citabria
here with an O-235 that just won't get the oil up to that temp in the
winter, even with the oil cooler blocked off, and corrosion has been a
problem. Had to hone and re-ring the rear two cylinders and oversize
the front pair at engine mid-time. The cylinders run so cool that
moisture is there all the time, getting trapped between the cylinder
wall and piston after shutdown and creating dissimilar-metal corrosion
pitting. The pitting causes worse cylinder wear and a ridge forms at
the bottom of the ring travel. The aluminum piston pin plugs ride over
the ridge and get shaved and you start finding aluminum chips in the
oil screen. A five-ring piston (three above the pin, two below) would
prevent the shaving, and maybe even some of the corrosion by
preventing access to the cylinder wall/piston interface by the
crankcase moisture.

Dan