On Aug 25, 7:28*am, T8 wrote:
On Aug 25, 9:25*am, wrote:



On Aug 24, 9:01*pm, Donald S Brant Jr wrote:

On Aug 24, 11:14*am, T8 wrote:

One other thing... DO include a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery
and do make certain that the connections between the CB and the
battery are absolutely as reliable as you can make them (as mentioned
on another thread, problems here aren't covered by your CB). *I
recommend a 5 amp push to reset CB, provided that you have some placeer Moxex-type connectors
to mount it correctly, teflon insulated aircraft wire of 18ga and
Molex or equivalent industrial quality crimp on connectors which are
*far* better than consumer grade stuff at your hardware store. *This
is a great area to solicit some help if you aren't completely
confident in your ability.

That's my public service announcement for the day :-).

-T8

For any battery connections I highly recommend Anderson Powerpole
connectors:http://www.andersonpower.com/product...onnectors.html.
They are hermaphorditic (sexless) and are being used as a defacto
standard in the Amateur Radio community for battery connections. *This
article:http://www.westmountainradio.com/sup...givesdetailson their
application. *There was a recent article in one of the ham magazines
discussing their advantages over
Molex-type connectors. *The use of 30-amp size connectors has been
suggested as standard due to their rugged construction and low contact
resistance.
Don.

We also use Powerpoles for the same reason. They will take much more
abuse than Molex connectors and have virtually no power loss. Can get
them at any hobby shop that handles RC cars. Note these are not hobby
products, they are industrial connectors.
UH

I'll have to check these out.

FWIW, my Molex recommendation was intended for the spade lug
connectors that attach directly to the battery -- these are bullet
proof. *I agree that the Molex disconnects are a little light duty.

-T8

And good advice.

If you want to be fancy, Molex, 3M or Amp/Tyco FASTON brand fully
insulated *nylon jacketed* female 1/4" blade aka "Faston" or "quick
connect" connectors. You normally want the standard "non-locking"
type, unless you battery terminals have a small hole/depression in
them designed to catch the dimple on a locking style connector (most
do not). The nylon jacket is more robust then the common PVC style.
The really cheap PVC jacketed blade connectors you find in auto parts
stores can be pretty bad. Some PVC jackets are so poorly attached they
can slide off, move up the wire if damaged slightly when crimping on
the connectors.

Other sources for all this stuff is DigiKey (www.digikey.com) - search
for "quick connects", or Mouser Electronics (www.Mouser.com) although
Mouser tend to be more expensive. Buy a bulk bag of them and they'll
last forever.

Darryl