On 5 Mar 2007 12:55:43 -0800, "Denny" wrote:



No one I know breaks the connections and drains the cooler at routine
oil changes...
if the oil is changed before it turns black then the oil cooler will
not have black sludge left in it.. The contained oil will be no
dirtier than what was drained and is diluted by the fresh oil...
Frequent oil changes is the solution...


Lordy,
I don't even have a filter and the oil is black when I change it at 25
hours. However it takes it 15 to 20 hours before the new oil darkens
much.

Now, if you have a pan heater and you are coking your oil with so
called 'preheats' than that residue and char will collect where the
oil flow is the lowest, which is the cooler where the Vernatherm stops
the flow... The cure is to stop using the pan heater...

I use the Tanis which is temperature controlled or rather limited.
It'll peak at somewhat under 50C. Hot enough if you just stick your
hand in there you will jump back, but cool enough that when you expect
it you can put your hand on the pan or cylinder heads and leave it
there.

Dipstick sump heaters are notorious for coking up.


If you recently changed oil types to one that is more aggressively
detergent which acted as a solvent and loosened the gunk in the
cooler, then this is likely a one time issue... A self curing
situation...

Remember the old cars that got a dose of detergent oil after years of
non detergent?


GL .... denny

73

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com