In the Decathlon, it depends on the airspeed. The Decathlon ailerons aren't
very powerful. At low airspeeds, the rudder is more powerful than the
ailerons because the rudder gets propwash and the ailerons don't. Using top
rudder on the first knife edge works against the ailerons. At very low
airspeeds, it can slow or almost stop the roll in the knife edge.

The only basic maneuver where this comes into play is the Split S, with an
entry speed of 85 mph. It is also a factor in any sequence that has a roll
immediately after a climbing maneuver, like the 2004 Sportsman.

At normal roll entry speed, it's not as big a deal. But it does slow down
the roll rate a bit, and it makes my rolls sloppy. I'm finding that kipping
the nose up about 5 degrees and not compensating for adverse yaw is enough
to keep the nose up until I get past the first knife edge. Works good at
any speed, so I just do all my rolls the same.

You do need quite a bit of rudder on the second knife edge, reducing it
somewhat as you finish the roll, but holding some rudder until you center
the stick.

All of the above taught me by Adam Cope, a very experienced and skilled
Decathlon driver. These comments ONLY apply to the Decathlon.



"Tom Parsons" wrote in message
...
Dave-

You mention not using top rudder for the first knife
edge but to use it during the second knife edge. Is this for the
aileron roll or slow roll?

I think the rudder advice should work for both. The reason for the
difference in rudder on the first vs. second knife edge is that adverse
yaw actually helps keep the nose up on the first knife edge, so less
rudder is required then. But on the second knife edge, adverse yaw is
working against you, pushing the nose down and requiring more top rudder
to keep it up.

Tom P.