Benchtops & Shelving

Cy, Can you still find Pentachlorophenol ?? I thought the do-gooders outlawed
it.
But if you try a Farm &Ranch store they might have something.. S'funny,
everything I now like is either Illegal, Immoral, or fattening!

Cy Galley wrote:

Dip the ends of the legs in penta preservative and your rot problems are
over. If you can pick up your present benches, it can still be done.

"Jim Weir" wrote in message
...
Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?

I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might
want
to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
Harbor
Freight benchtop drill press.

Jim



Jim Weir
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts
on what
-you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
about 2'
-wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but
quick
-and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
-
-Thoughts appreciated.


Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 12:06:03 -0800, Jim Weir wrote:

I'm considering making the
framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings.

Since you left "cosidering" in here, I'd give some thought to using
EMT ... inexpensive, and stiffer, and fittings are easily obtained to
do lots of what youwould need.

The problem is what to use
for the bench tops and shelving underneath.

Thickness gives stiffness .... your hollow core door blanks sound
good. I've seen rolls and sheets of polyethylene that is fairly
thick, maybe .050 to .125 inch that would make a good waterproof
covering.

Jim Weir wrote...

Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?

NONLUMBER? For a 2'x6' top? Shoot, Home Despot has marble for, like,
$70/sf. Steel's probably too expensive too. If it doesn't have
to be super rigid you might try 0.064 AL. The short answer
is there probably isn't anything readily available and cheap.
Bricks, maybe, or patio pavers.

Me, I'd use plywood and slather epoxy on it. That's what
I do already. Whenever I have leftovers I just dump it on
one bench in particular and squeegee it over the top.
But that's not what you asked.

Dave 'hardtop' Hyde

Cast some concrete in a 2" form?

How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.



--
Dan D.



..
"Jim Weir" wrote in message ...
Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?

I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
Freight benchtop drill press.

Jim



Jim Weir
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
-you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
-wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
-and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
-
-Thoughts appreciated.


Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

Blueskies wrote:

How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.

I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 03:27:40 GMT, "G.R. Patterson III"
wrote:



Blueskies wrote:

How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.

I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.

Trek? I'd have said it's like working with slippery iron and you need
a truss (for the hernia you'll get from lifting it). DO NOT BUILD
AIRPLANES OUT OF THIS STUFF. (ObContent)

Don

Don Tuite wrote:

On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 03:27:40 GMT, "G.R. Patterson III"
wrote:



Blueskies wrote:

How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.

I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.

Trek? I'd have said it's like working with slippery iron and you need
a truss (for the hernia you'll get from lifting it). DO NOT BUILD
AIRPLANES OUT OF THIS STUFF. (ObContent)

Don

I'm building some walls in the shop using steel studs.

Light steel sections (maybe .020 thick?) rolled into the most
beautiful beams, channels, other odd shapes...

All three times too heavy.


Richard

Jim Weir wrote in message . ..
Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?


What are your operating parameters? How sturdy? Chemical resistance?
Impact resistance? Easy to clean? Non static? Humidity resistant
(no rot or rust)?

My favorite work bench is part of an old restaurant. 1" galvanized
steel structure, 14 ga stainless top with a nice rounded lip on the
back to keep things from rolling off. The only thing that I could
never clean off was some oil from a MB diesel. Nasty stuff. The oil
not the Merc.

However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.

Restaurant supply houses that specialize in used equipment will have
stainless steel tables. Size / price / condition will vary. Might be
able to find a butcher's table. I suspect that it's a sheet of
teflon-like stuff (those white plastic cutting boards) laid over SS.

Plexiglas / Lexan? You could stiffen it up with bracing on the
underside.

Foam board used for insulating houses and some a/c designs? You can
get it thick for stiffness, though it won't handle beating on. It'll
take pins well if you're building balsa models or laying out wiring
harnesses. Just don't try to solder on it. ;-^

Corian / synthetic stone counters. Not cheap, unless you can find one
salvaged or scrap. Some towns have architectural recycling centers
where you can get pre-owned building materials cheap. (Might even
find some old luan doors.) They might have a counter top or two;
likewise the manufacuter or an installer might have a damaged or
customer-rejected one they'd unload at cost.

Why do you want a non-wood top, anyway?

You may be right but I still have most of a gallon in the garage. Just don't
tell the bunnyhuggers!

"Jerry Wass" wrote in message
...
Cy, Can you still find Pentachlorophenol ?? I thought the do-gooders
outlawed
it.
But if you try a Farm &Ranch store they might have something.. S'funny,
everything I now like is either Illegal, Immoral, or fattening!

Cy Galley wrote:

Dip the ends of the legs in penta preservative and your rot problems are
over. If you can pick up your present benches, it can still be done.

"Jim Weir" wrote in message
...
Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?

I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I
might
want
to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
Harbor
Freight benchtop drill press.

Jim



Jim Weir
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

-However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like
thoughts
on what
-you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
about 2'
-wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best,
but
quick
-and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
-
-Thoughts appreciated.


Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com