removing transparency coating

I am trying to remove the spray coating that was sprayed on my
transparency for shipping. Stuff has been on there for over 3 or more
years now and it might take me that long just trying to remove the
damn stuff.

Any advice from those who might have some experience with this
tenacious film?

Thanks,
Brad

What is this "transparency" and what is it made of?

At 22:51 18 September 2009, Brad wrote:
I am trying to remove the spray coating that was sprayed on my
transparency for shipping. Stuff has been on there for over 3 or more
years now and it might take me that long just trying to remove the
damn stuff.

Any advice from those who might have some experience with this
tenacious film?

Thanks,
Brad

On Sep 18, 5:15*pm, Nyal Williams wrote:
What is this "transparency" and what is it made of?

In the case at hand the transparency is made of 1/8" aircraft grade
acrylic plastic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas (tm) or generically
plexiglass. It's the clear plastic thingy you look out of when you sit
in a sailplane. I don't refer to it as a "canopy" because that word is
too often used to refer to the entire assembly consisting of the
acrylic transparency, the canopy frame and assorted mechanisms of
latching and hinging.

Thanks, Bob K.

Hot water and plexiglass cleaner.

At 22:51 18 September 2009, Brad wrote:
I am trying to remove the spray coating that was sprayed on my
transparency for shipping. Stuff has been on there for over 3 or more
years now and it might take me that long just trying to remove the
damn stuff.

Any advice from those who might have some experience with this
tenacious film?

Thanks,
Brad

Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ

In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ

On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:
In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:



Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F

On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:





In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).

"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"

I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,

My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.

On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.

bumper
zz
Minden

On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote:
On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:





On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:

In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).

"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"

I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,

My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.

On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.

bumper
zz
Minden

Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under
the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will
also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who
say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol.

Brad

On Sep 19, 6:03*pm, Brad wrote:
On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote:





On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:

In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:

Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).

"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"

I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,

My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.

On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.

bumper
zz
Minden

Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under
the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will
also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who
say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol.

Brad

Brad
hi from rainy France.
I sometimes have lenses made and sometimes the process involves glue
of some kind that I used to remove with smelly toxic stuff, then one
day I left some in water for a few days and was suprised to find the
stuff fell off after a day in water.