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On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:24:47 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote: In article .com, "wright1902glider" wrote: If you're paralleling the tubes for six inches or more, and you filled the notches between them top and bottom with a fillet of serious industrial epoxy, (not the five minute stuff) I'd think you'd be able to support more of a cantilevered load before the glue sheared, than you would before the tubing folded at the bolt holes. From a strenght issue, I agree; most adhesives I've worked with will fail from the concentrated peel forces in an application like this. What he wants to do is taper a wedge, probably of wood, over a few inches so the load is unifirmly imposed. No, I cannot do a sketch. (EMT isn't very strong, and you're going to need a 0.187" hole for a #10 bolt.) I want to see how hard he has to drive to get a 0.190" fastener (#10) through a 0.187" hole ... In reality, I agree with you. Most #10 are specifically on the low side of tolerance so they can fit the 3/16" spec, and most drills drill oversize. Anyway, I can see you like the bolts. You could make your own clamping fixture, a combination of the V-block idea and the two by four idea. If you have a table saw, you could cut stepped grooves in two 6 or 8 inch long wood blocks. The inner step has a width and depth of 1/2". The outer step has a width of 1" and a depth of 1/2." Drill some holes for drill bushings, available at the industrial hardware store, press them in, clamp the two halves around the three tubes, and drill. And leave the v-grooved blocks installed, extending past the fasteners in the loaded direction. |
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