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#11
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Some PIK-20D's have problems with the paint (very thick in places)
coming off: Big blisters form, then crack and come off. The repair manual says you should make a hole in the blister, inject glue and press the paint on again. My club had his PIK (very bad paint problems around the canopy cut-out and on the wing trailing edge) professionaly repaired and resprayed once, and the guy said he would never take on another job like that. But many PIK have flawless paints, so you should check that in person before buying. It is a very nice glider to fly, very responsive to the ailerons, except in the full positive flap position. You have to ballast it when you want to fly over 100 mph, the wing - carbon fibre spar - is rock hard and gives a very turbulent ride if you don't. Ergonomy is excellent, everything is exactly where you want it to be (in that respect, it is much better than the ASW-20). But I wouldn't advise a beginner to fly one: you need to move the flaps during start and landing. The Jantar is a very nice glider too, if you've got the right proportions to be able to actuate the wheel and airbrake levers (my arms are too long). The original gelcoat is not very good (too thin and not really smooth), but can of course be improved by respraying, and the view is restricted by the canopy frame (2 parts). The canopy, once opened, is very sensible to wind (it opens to the rear and stays vertical, retained by a weak spring system). You have to choose between no ballast and full ballast (150 liters) for take off (you can unballast partially once in the air). It's not as good as some other gliders in very weak conditions, but it is a very fast club glider, even unballasted, in good to very good weather. |
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