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#1
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Engine case sealer?
After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them?
Thanks! |
#2
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Engine case sealer?
bBob wrote:
After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them? Thanks! Silk thread - on old Continentals. |
#3
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Engine case sealer?
In article . net,
Richard Lamb wrote: bBob wrote: After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them? Thanks! Silk thread - on old Continentals. Make sure that you use *SILK* -- NOT nylon thread! Silk will compress, while nylon will cause fretting. Your overhaul manual should tell you how to do this. Also, use some either Hylomar (blue) or the pink Continental sealant. |
#4
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Engine case sealer?
"Richard Lamb" wrote in message ink.net... bBob wrote: After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them? Thanks! Silk thread - on old Continentals. Thanks for the reply Richard. I think I should have provided a few more details- we were in a rush earlier. I split the cases on a military aircraft gearbox for inspection. It appears to be sealed with what we used to call 8802 (I think the proper title is MIL-S-8802 sealant). This gearbox is for a non-aircraft project and is exposed to high temperatures as it's nestled in the cheeks of a turbine exhaust duct. The lube oil supposedly reaches 180F but I think the housing may see 300F. I think the case reaches pressures of 25 psi. The lube oil passages reach 120 psi. I tried to locate 8802 or a substitute, without success. If you are not familiar with 8802, when set it is like a grey colored 3M 5200 sealant. It's a little tougher than Blue RTV. What products should I be looking at to reseal this gearcase? Thanks in advance. |
#5
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Engine case sealer?
There is a red sealant the auto atores are handling now that is even
approved by faa (so I waS told) it acts like an anaerobic sealer with silicone rubber in it. forgot the number--in a red tube quite a bit higher than the other types, but well worth it. Jerry bBob wrote: "Richard Lamb" wrote in message ink.net... bBob wrote: After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them? Thanks! Silk thread - on old Continentals. Thanks for the reply Richard. I think I should have provided a few more details- we were in a rush earlier. I split the cases on a military aircraft gearbox for inspection. It appears to be sealed with what we used to call 8802 (I think the proper title is MIL-S-8802 sealant). This gearbox is for a non-aircraft project and is exposed to high temperatures as it's nestled in the cheeks of a turbine exhaust duct. The lube oil supposedly reaches 180F but I think the housing may see 300F. I think the case reaches pressures of 25 psi. The lube oil passages reach 120 psi. I tried to locate 8802 or a substitute, without success. If you are not familiar with 8802, when set it is like a grey colored 3M 5200 sealant. It's a little tougher than Blue RTV. What products should I be looking at to reseal this gearcase? Thanks in advance. |
#6
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Engine case sealer?
"jerry wass" wrote in message ... There is a red sealant the auto atores are handling now that is even approved by faa (so I waS told) it acts like an anaerobic sealer with silicone rubber in it. forgot the number--in a red tube quite a bit higher than the other types, but well worth it. Jerry Is it like the red sealant shown here? http://tinyurl.com/znk34 |
#7
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Engine case sealer?
here is the now superceded Mil-Product spec for this stuff:
http://assist.daps.dla.mil/docimages...74/12/7194.PD9 you want type II, Class C. Manganese cure, faying surface grade polysulfide. There is now an SAE spec for this stuff, SAE-AMS-8802 Pro-Seal, beloved (not!) of many RV builders is the same chemistry, just thicker. You could use the class A stuff, and thin it with Toluene. Another poster mentioned what sounds to me like Loctite Gasket Eliminator, good for up to 200 deg Celsius. That oughta do it, and it's a whole lot easier to find than the polysulfide. Volkswagen engine builders use Gascacinch, Yamabond, and some german goo who's name escapes me at the moment to seal similar faying surfaces. |
#8
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Engine case sealer?
"flybynightkarmarepair" wrote in message ups.com... here is the now superceded Mil-Product spec for this stuff: http://assist.daps.dla.mil/docimages...74/12/7194.PD9 you want type II, Class C. Manganese cure, faying surface grade polysulfide. There is now an SAE spec for this stuff, SAE-AMS-8802 Pro-Seal, beloved (not!) of many RV builders is the same chemistry, just thicker. You could use the class A stuff, and thin it with Toluene. Another poster mentioned what sounds to me like Loctite Gasket Eliminator, good for up to 200 deg Celsius. That oughta do it, and it's a whole lot easier to find than the polysulfide. Volkswagen engine builders use Gascacinch, Yamabond, and some german goo who's name escapes me at the moment to seal similar faying surfaces. Thank you kind sir! |
#9
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Engine case sealer?
In article .net,
Richard Lamb wrote: Orval Fairbairn wrote: In article . net, Richard Lamb wrote: bBob wrote: After splitting the engine cases, what is recommended for resealing them? Thanks! Silk thread - on old Continentals. Make sure that you use *SILK* -- NOT nylon thread! Silk will compress, while nylon will cause fretting. Your overhaul manual should tell you how to do this. Also, use some either Hylomar (blue) or the pink Continental sealant. Pink is for girls, Orval! Or for Continentals! |
#10
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Engine case sealer?
In article . com,
"flybynightkarmarepair" wrote: here is the now superceded Mil-Product spec for this stuff: http://assist.daps.dla.mil/docimages...74/12/7194.PD9 you want type II, Class C. Manganese cure, faying surface grade polysulfide. There is now an SAE spec for this stuff, SAE-AMS-8802 Pro-Seal, beloved (not!) of many RV builders is the same chemistry, just thicker. You could use the class A stuff, and thin it with Toluene. Another poster mentioned what sounds to me like Loctite Gasket Eliminator, good for up to 200 deg Celsius. That oughta do it, and it's a whole lot easier to find than the polysulfide. Volkswagen engine builders use Gascacinch, Yamabond, and some german goo who's name escapes me at the moment to seal similar faying surfaces. Do nor use RTV to seal crankcase halves! It allows minute movement and will cause the mating surfaces to fret. |
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