Extending shelf life of two part epoxy chemicals

On Aug 28, 1:51 pm, "
wrote:
I may be the one misunderstanding the OP's request, but I thought he
was asking about 2 part epoxy - Paint - not laminating resin. If so
there isn't much that can be done about extending the shelf life once
the hardner has been opened. Maybe blow some argon from the TIG in
the can and do the same with a zip-lock bag around it for storage?

The last place to store it is in the fridge with food. (been there,
done that, and the fridge made the food taste strange for more than a
year) The stuff reacts with moisture and the innards of a fridge is a
very moist place.
================
Leon McAtee

Leon,

You may be the only one who caught the "spraying" part of the original
post. Yes, I believe he was referring to two-part epoxy paint and
everyone was answering for two-part epoxy adheasive and resins. I
don't know of any way to extend the shelf life of two-part epoxy
paints but would like to hear some good answers.

Bob

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 15:05:58 -0700, BobR
wrote:

On Aug 28, 1:51 pm, "
wrote:
I may be the one misunderstanding the OP's request, but I thought he
was asking about 2 part epoxy - Paint - not laminating resin. If so
there isn't much that can be done about extending the shelf life once
the hardner has been opened. Maybe blow some argon from the TIG in
the can and do the same with a zip-lock bag around it for storage?

The last place to store it is in the fridge with food. (been there,
done that, and the fridge made the food taste strange for more than a
year) The stuff reacts with moisture and the innards of a fridge is a
very moist place.
================
Leon McAtee

Leon,

You may be the only one who caught the "spraying" part of the original
post. Yes, I believe he was referring to two-part epoxy paint and
everyone was answering for two-part epoxy adheasive and resins. I
don't know of any way to extend the shelf life of two-part epoxy
paints but would like to hear some good answers.

Bob
OP here. I was talking about 2 part primer if that make a diff - Mike

Michael Horowitz wrote:

You may be the only one who caught the "spraying" part of the original
post. Yes, I believe he was referring to two-part epoxy paint and
everyone was answering for two-part epoxy adheasive and resins. I
don't know of any way to extend the shelf life of two-part epoxy
paints but would like to hear some good answers.

Bob

OP here. I was talking about 2 part primer if that make a diff - Mike


The temperature thing will work - to a point.

I've put mixed RandoPlate and EpiBond in the friges after mixing so
it wouldn't be sitting around cooking while I was spraying.

I was using a small touch up gun to spray my Tailwind fuselage truss.

When the gun goes empty, pop it open and pour in another load.


Slow it down, yes. Maybe even over night.

But this won't _stop_ the reaction.

Richard

In article ,
cavelamb himself wrote:

Michael Horowitz wrote:

You may be the only one who caught the "spraying" part of the original
post. Yes, I believe he was referring to two-part epoxy paint and
everyone was answering for two-part epoxy adheasive and resins. I
don't know of any way to extend the shelf life of two-part epoxy
paints but would like to hear some good answers.

Bob

OP here. I was talking about 2 part primer if that make a diff - Mike


The temperature thing will work - to a point.

I've put mixed RandoPlate and EpiBond in the friges after mixing so
it wouldn't be sitting around cooking while I was spraying.

I was using a small touch up gun to spray my Tailwind fuselage truss.

When the gun goes empty, pop it open and pour in another load.


Slow it down, yes. Maybe even over night.

But this won't _stop_ the reaction.

Richard

Actually, I have saved small amounts of 2-part PPG epoxy primer by
putting it in the freezer. The stuff appears to be usable for a week or
2. It stays liquid and sets up after spraying.

I usually mix it by the partial-teaspoon to do touchup with an airbrush.

wrote:
I may be the one misunderstanding the OP's request, but I thought he
was asking about 2 part epoxy - Paint - not laminating resin. If so
there isn't much that can be done about extending the shelf life once
the hardner has been opened. Maybe blow some argon from the TIG in
the can and do the same with a zip-lock bag around it for storage?

The last place to store it is in the fridge with food. (been there,
done that, and the fridge made the food taste strange for more than a
year) The stuff reacts with moisture and the innards of a fridge is a
very moist place.
================
Leon McAtee


I've stored stuff in a fridge that has a limited shelf life for quite a
long time after the life expired.
I'm not talking about messing up food, but keeping the stuff cold where
there is less of a chance of a reaction. if you have a shop fridge with
nothing to hurt, all the better.
I keep my stiff in zip lock bags in a fridge. There isn't much moisture
there due to the temperatures and the "stuff" has less chance to react
to moisture or oxygen because of the temperature.
This could be paint, bread or anything else.
It's basic physics.
As always there's the "it all depends" disclaimer. Nothing is 100%.

Dave wrote:


I've stored stuff in a fridge that has a limited shelf life for quite a
long time after the life expired.
I'm not talking about messing up food, but keeping the stuff cold where
there is less of a chance of a reaction. if you have a shop fridge with
nothing to hurt, all the better.
I keep my stiff in zip lock bags in a fridge. There isn't much moisture
there due to the temperatures and the "stuff" has less chance to react
to moisture or oxygen because of the temperature.
This could be paint, bread or anything else.
It's basic physics.
As always there's the "it all depends" disclaimer. Nothing is 100%.


Speaking of zip lock bags... (dreaded thread drift warning!)

I finally tries bagging Bondo!

I did some boat work this last year. Made a mold to form
a pair of fiberglass shelves to fit above the berths.

Aviation composite techniques work fine on boats too!

Making the mold I needed a radius corner on a plywood form.
I've used Bondo for this before - but what a freaking mess to clean up!

So I dumped the Bondo in a reinforced Zip Lock bag (duct tape doubler
over the corner to keep the seams from popping open) and squirted the
bead out like cake decoration.

Then ran a tongue depressor down the bead to form the radius - and it
was DONE.

Came out pretty nice too, I think.

Richard

Pic of plywood plug with finished radius:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavel...8-cab.htm#mold

I've used the same technique on micro/epoxy fillets...didn't try the
duct-tape doulber though....good idea!
Roland


Making the mold I needed a radius corner on a plywood form.
I've used Bondo for this before - but what a freaking mess to clean up!

So I dumped the Bondo in a reinforced Zip Lock bag (duct tape doubler
over the corner to keep the seams from popping open) and squirted the bead
out like cake decoration.

Then ran a tongue depressor down the bead to form the radius - and it
was DONE.

Came out pretty nice too, I think.

Richard

Pic of plywood plug with finished radius:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavel...8-cab.htm#mold

The Doubler made all the difference on something as stiff as Bondo.
Otherwise the bag is likely to split.

I haven't tried it with dry micro yet.
Just haven't had a need yet.

But the bondo bead was so neat it's gotta be worth a try...


Roland Derks wrote:
I've used the same technique on micro/epoxy fillets...didn't try the
duct-tape doulber though....good idea!
Roland



Making the mold I needed a radius corner on a plywood form.
I've used Bondo for this before - but what a freaking mess to clean up!

So I dumped the Bondo in a reinforced Zip Lock bag (duct tape doubler
over the corner to keep the seams from popping open) and squirted the bead
out like cake decoration.

Then ran a tongue depressor down the bead to form the radius - and it
was DONE.

Came out pretty nice too, I think.

Richard

Pic of plywood plug with finished radius:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavel...8-cab.htm#mold