hard wax application

Yeah, if I was charging $1K+ to hard wax a glider, I'd be telling you about
all the damage I've seen done by clueless owners... The maker of the hard
wax bar also offers a soft paste for orbital polisher application. Use it on
the controls if you fear your thumbs.

Pulled this recently from a FAQ hosted by a well-known maker of paint
protection products...

"Some waxes do contain UV-protection agents, but the amount of protection
that a microscopically thin layer of wax can provide is limited

The primary goal of a wax is to protect the top layers of paint that contain
UV-protection agents from the paint manufacture. If you wash and wax your
car regularly, your paint will be protected and you should suffer no major
UV damage over the normal course of the life of the car.

Don't be fooled by some companies that lead you to believe that it is the UV
protection in a wax that protects your car's finish from fading and failure,
this is dishonest and simply not true. Taking care of the paint you
presently have will go further to protect your finish than relying on
protection supplied by a liquid you pour out of a bottle, or a wax you scoop
out of a can. UV protection in a car wax formula is only an extra-dose of
preventative maintenance, not the end-all, cure-all that some companies
would lead you to believe.

UV protection for paint is much different from UV blocking ingredients for
human skin. The two formulas are nothing alike and work in drastically
different ways. There is no correlation between the ratings applied to the
different levels of sun blocking protection for products intended for use on
human skin and the ingredients available for use in an automotive wax
formula. Sad to say, much of what you see advertised about the protective
qualities of most car care products on the market today is simply
over-exaggerated hype used to separate you from your hard earned dollars."



"Tony Verhulst" wrote in message
. ..

Hard wax has some abrassive content but it is primarily a wax, not a
polish -- it fills in tiny holes in the surface, which polishers do
not do.


This is what Heinz at M&H told me. In addition, the heat generated by the
process also softens the gelcoat which further helps to seal fine cracks.
You need a powerful angle buffer to generate this kind of heat, as Ted
clearly understands. Something that almost blows your circuit breaker will
suffice :-) - the US$40 polishers at Sears will not. Heinz also repairs a
few ships a year where a bit too much heat was generated - especially on
the thin control surfaces. It's a process that needs to be learned and I'm
still working on it - slowly

Tony V. LS6-b "6N"

user wrote:
Yeah, if I was charging $1K+ to hard wax a glider, I'd be telling you about
all the damage I've seen done by clueless owners.

Maybe - but then he also showed me how to use the buffer.

Tony

I tried 3M Finesse-It II and was much happier with the
application and finish. *
Mike

Is the Finesse-it ll applied with the variable speed polisher like it
would be with the hard bar wax?

Craig

On Apr 21, 5:14*pm, wrote:
I tried 3M Finesse-It II and was much happier with the
application and finish. *
Mike

Is the Finesse-it ll applied with the variable speed polisher like it
would be with the hard bar wax?

Craig

Variable or fixed speed buffer.

On Apr 20, 10:43*am, Tuno wrote:

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

I am sort of surprized that nobody else has said this, but I think
3000 RPM is WAY too fast. Try to keep it to 1200 or less. And is
what you got one of those random orbit things (junk, in my opinion) or
a pure rotating buffing wheel?

I used 3M stuff (Super Duty Rubbing Compound, followed by Finese-it
II) on a rather oxidized 18 meter ship. It had been re-finished back
in 1989 with Prestec, and put in the trailer until I bought it in
2006. It was stored near Minden. After the 3M stuff to get it shiny
again, I used Wx Seal and Wx Block. The 3M stuff and the first Wx
product was applied with my power buffer, the second Wx by hand and
everything was hand wiped after with clean white towels. Each side of
each wing took me about one hour on each product with the buffer or
hand application, and about an hour with the towels hand cleaning and
buffing afterwords. In my opinion, the wings on that 39 year old BS1
looked as good an anything new coming out of the factories. OK, they
are thick and wide compared to your 29, and a bunch heavier, but I
think they look fantastic!

Each process had its own buffing pad, and its own towels for applying
and buffing. I still have to do the fuselage.

I would agree with Andy, and get to work applying Wx Seal and Wx
Block. And, if I can ever get around to it, I have a bunch of other
planes I need to get around to polishing and sealing.

Steve Leonard
Wichita, KS

Tuno wrote:
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO


Ted:

I like Harly Wax. It is a moderately hard carnuba in a can. Application
by hand is moderately easy. It seems to have little if any solvents.
Twice a year does the trick. Wax it with sealing tape in place or they
won't stick after waxing. I have found it only on the internet at
www.harlywax.com. His service is excellent.

Paul
ZZ

Sharpen up your german and follow this link. You'll learn more about
maintaining your glider's finish than you're getting here.

http://www.rall-guitars.de/andreashp...chine_eng.html

Look around the website for anything on polishing. Though the menus are in
english (and some of the pages), patience and Babelfish will get you the
info lacking in this thread.

Think of your hard bar "wax" as finishing off the swirls left by 1200 wet
sanding. Yes, it reduces and fills in the "gaps" while polishing, but it
doesn't seal, so be sure to apply wax afterwards if you want to preserve the
finish. I suspect the reason so many have objections to the hard wax and
buffing wheel is based on lack of knowledge, trying to use it where cleaning
and sanding would be natural precursors to polishing and sealing.

Again, the results are exceptional. If you use the right tools for the
appropriate steps in the process, you'll wind up with a brilliant finish
that outshines anything from a bottle... and find that each step is really
pretty simple and largely foolproof. There's no mystery in this stuff, save
that it's tough to find valid information from a single, reliable source.

"Tuno" wrote in message
...
I've never used hard wax before, but since the factory recommends it
on the gelcoat, I'm going to give it a try. I just have no clue how to
go about it. (My Google search results are great -- for hair removal!)

I have a Makita 0-3000rpm variable speed polisher, a brick of hard
wax, and a mandrel and other accessories I got from the dealer. Is
there a technique writeup on the web somewhere?

~ted/2NO

I've never used hard wax but it sure sounds like a pain in the rear.
3M products are all I have used and if all your after is a final gloss
"Finesse It" works great and is easy to use. As previously warned a
buffer can do a lot of damage but I think if the person is smart
enough to learn how to fly and understands power hand tools they could
easily master it.

Hard wax application is a lot easier than some make it out to be. John
Murray gave me a little demonstration, but it's pretty much a common
sense thing anyway. Just keep moving and make sure the rotation is
correct when you get near trailing edges and control surfaces. It
works beautifully for me. I'm not scared of it, but I do have some
respect for the danger it presents near trailing edges. Just take your
time and think before applying.

Tuno, you are getting good advice.

Machine "hardwaxing" is a skill and teaching yourself to do this as
PIC the first time would be unwise for most mortals. If you are going
the self-taught method, maybeyou could sell tickets to watch.

The thin fiberglass/carbon skins of modern ships are especially
sensitive to excess heat and pressure and a control surface can be
ripped in half instantly if you get the wrong edge of the buffer in
the wrong place. A friend working in a glider factory observed his 55
kg girlfriend get yanked completely over a wing when she caught the
buffer on the leading edge. If you want to do this, the Makita
variable spped buffer is the "gold standard" tool.

As was mentioned previously, hardwaxing accomplishes a couple of
things. First, it is mildly abrasive and thus removes fine scratches
from the surface. Secondly, the heat of the buffer opens the porous
structure of the gelcoat and the gets the wax down into the coating,
"moisturizing" it. I know of a glider that was almost impossible to
repair as the gelcoat was saturated with wax from repeated hardwaxing
and nothing would stick to it. It is noteworthy that this ship's
finish was nearly perfect even though this make and model is notorious
for finish crazing.

Negative issues associated with hardwaxing: 1) It will NOT protect
the ship from UV. The ship mentioned above was very yellow despite
the hardwaxing 2) It does remove material. 3) If done excessively
and you soak the finish with wax, the gelcoat can be very difficult to
repair.

What protective wax to use is problematic. To my knowledge no
independent research has been conducted and we thus rely on anectotal
evidence and the manufactuer's claims. I currently favor and use the
WX Block / Seal as the "topcoat" after final buffing of the surface.
New Finish apparently does a good job as well. A Grob that was semi-
annually coated (by hand) with this product sat out in the Tehachapi
sun and weather 24/7 for a decade and looked great. [Rat On] Of
course, it started with good gelcoat as opposed to the swill that some
manufacturers pass off as a surface coating on $100K toys [Rant Off].
100% carnuba seals the surface and does not interfere with repairs but
I do not beleive it offers UV protection.

Finally, I believe an optimal system would be: Buffing with
Finessette to get a good surface, hardwax to get wax into the gelcoat,
and WX Block for UV protection.

As a side note, several studies, notably Dick Johnson, show that,
while they are more difficult to keep clean, a 600 or 800 grit finish
yields performance benefits and the mirror-like 1000+ grit finishes
currently in vogue measurably degrade performance. I finish sand my
own gliders to 800 grit and everyone else's to 1200.