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#1
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![]() You pose a good topic for this group. There are going to be several opinions offered so I will submit my commentary and hope this helps. If you are serious about purchasing a glider even in a year or so, do some research and focus in on a specific type of machine. Whether it is glass, wood, or any other construction, find one to look at, sit in, ask to help rig the machine. Ask lots of questions of an owner who regularly fly's that particular model and type. Ask about the sailplane log book and read the entries about maintenance and depending on it's AW certificate type find out if there are entries for each instrument installation, and modification. Purchasing a ship with bad or sloppy paperwork can be difficult to rectify during an annual inspection if you inspector goes strictly by the book. Check to see if the hours are up to date and it has a current annual inspection. Cheap prices can mean there are large maintenance items pending. Having someone you pay to inspect and look for issues is very cheap insurance to avoid potential problems to repair later. If you do find a good machine, it must have a good trailer and fittings. Nothing makes a misery more than a poorly organized trailer. The annual maintenance costs will vary with each machine, be prepared to spend at least $1000 annually. You may not have to spend this much, but i'd be suprised if you didn't. after all you will need a better Vario, or a updated PDA or maybe a flight computer, a new main tire, or tailwheel, Self rigging dolly and the list goes on and on... Buy what you can have fun with and stay within your budget, Hope this helps TU |
#2
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All good answers above.
My suggestion is to ask the seller to have you help them assemble the glider. This will be telling. It will tell you if YOU will be able to assemble the glider easily and two people can do it, or if it too difficult and needs more than two people. It will also tell you how good the trailer is. To understand the continum of easy to difficult, help those in your club assemble their gliders. This happens often for glass (once a flight), but not very often for non-glass (once a year). Or bring along someone experienced who will give you a rating 1-10. That is a good idea anyway to spot things that you might note (blinded by visions of a new glider). Hidden expenses - Not many. Insurance (get a quote) and annual inspection is obvious. Tape, polish, etc is cheap. What might be a surprise? An instrument that isn't working. They can be expensive but this happens surprisingly seldom. But how can you test when you are on a buying trip and the glider is on the ground short of a test flight? (unlike powered, you will almost never get a flight before buying unless its a two place) Answer, you basically can't. So get the seller to guarantee the instruments are good. Most sellers will not have an issue with this. Trailers - Someone told me that the first glider you will buy for the fuselage and cockpit, and the second for the trailer. For the $10K range, you will most likely not get a great trailer. The assembly test above is key to seeing if the trailer is good enough for you. I love my trailer and its a homebuilt! The only problem is that it is heavier than the nicer fiberglass/aluminum trailers. How mechanical are you? You might be able to take an iffy trailer and fix it up (easier than fixing up an iffy glider's airframe). I went from a trailer that was OK to rig to one that is really quite easy to rig by adding a few innovations of my own. Automatic control hook ups - For $10K you probably won't get this. I have a DG-101 and it has hotellier. Not too bad. Again, a trial assembly is useful. DG's are basically easy to rig and easy fly. My $0.02. Good Luck, John DeRosa http://aviation.derosaweb.net/dg101 |
#3
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On May 5, 8:39*am, vic20owner wrote:
No, I am not planning to buy anything for at least a year ... but I have often wondered what other "hidden" expenses or obstacles there are associated with buying a used glider. I regularly see older planes in the $10K USD range (which is well within my price range). * BUT, for future reference, what inspections are required for the glider to be considered air worthy, and what else should I know before considering such a purchase aside from obvious structural damage or electrical problems? *How much damage should I consider "normal wear and tear" such as delaminating wing tips, bent rudder, etc which is a relatively easy repair versus something which is major (wing struts, etc)? Also, is there any specific paperwork (flight hours, maintenance records, etc) I should insist on seeing, etc. *Is it common to pay someone else to inspect the aircraft prior to purchase? Lastly, are there any specific gliders one should avoid as a first used glider? (such as homebuilt kit planes, etc)? Thanks -tom Tom, You've read some sound wisdom here. There are a lot of opinions out there, and some you can take with a grain of salt. The best way to find the glider for you is to ask questions. You will quickly find that there are pilots, and then there are armchair pilots. I've found that when it comes to certain biases about planes, it is generally they that have never flown one that have the greatest biases. For example. I was told never to buy a plane with a flying stab..."Too sensitive", they said. Or, a glider without spoilers is too hard to land. It's all bunk. It is just a matter of being prepared for the plane you want to buy. Certainly I wouldn't advise that you to buy a high aspect ratio super ship with flaps as your first plane. But there is nothing wrong with getting a little performance for you to grow into. I'm sure your instructor would be happy to offer advice on your first plane. From my very first flight, my instructor knew that I was going to buy a plane and we talked constantly about it. I considered myself to be an average student, and I went from a 2-33 to a Grob 103, then right to a Pik-20. There was a steep learning curve for the Pik-20 becasue I had to book learn it then fly it, as there are no trainers like it. I adapted, learned and survived. I'm now having the time of my life! When shopping for a plane I would also ask to see a current weight and balance sheet. I got stung on a purchase by just asking whart the max pilot weight was. The owner told me a number, but after the purchase I found out that he quoted what was in the POH. After a weight and balance was done I was shocked to find out that it actually was 35 pounds less than what he said. After adding a parachute I was already overweight. I sold the plane and became a smarter shopper. I'm sure you will make a smart purchase that you will enjoy for many years. Warren Evans |
#4
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I'll reiterate what others have said about the value of a GOOD
trailer. Doesn't matter if the trailer is factory built or homebuilt. What matters is how it works. How it works at holding the precious cargo safely. How it works at making rigging and de-rigging easy. How it works at protecting the glider from the elements. How it works in towing stability and providing adequate space for "stuff" like wheel chocks, wash bucket, towout gear, wing stand, tail dolly, etc. If the trailer is a knuckle-buster, the soaring experience will NOT BE FUN. Ray Lovinggood Carrboro, North Carolina, USA |
#5
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![]() Thanks everyone for the very detailed replies. I have to admit I am surprised at just how helpful the member of this list are to beginners. I would prefer a 2 seater so I can fly with friends,family, or other fellow pilots. At the moment (this may change with experience) I am primarily interested in a Let Blanik L-23 or L-12 simply because I am flying an L-23 in my lessons and enjoy it quite a bit. -tom |
#6
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In message
, vic20owner writes Thanks everyone for the very detailed replies. I have to admit I am surprised at just how helpful the member of this list are to beginners. I would prefer a 2 seater so I can fly with friends,family, or other fellow pilots. At the moment (this may change with experience) I am primarily interested in a Let Blanik L-23 or L-12 simply because I am flying an L-23 in my lessons and enjoy it quite a bit. When you learnt to drive, did you go out and buy a car like the one you learnt in? Would you still enjoy driving the type of car you learnt on? Do you still do the same type of driving you did when you learnt? When I went solo just under 3 years ago I had barely been out of glide range of the club. Then I started getting more adventurous and found the performance limitations of the basic 1-seat gliders we have, so I got my own bit of glass and am having a ball doing XC flying when conditions permit. I'd suggest you try as many different gliders as you can during the next year before deciding to look for something. Try to have a go with some more modern types including glass gliders - the Blanik you are flying is basically a 50-year old design, updated a bit. And think very hard if it's really appropriate to have a 2-seat glider to give an occasional joy-ride. It will cost more to insure and maintain, and be harder to rig. Wanting to do some flying with friends is fine, but most of the folks I know use the club gliders for that. -- Surfer! Email to: ramwater at uk2 dot net |
#7
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vic20owner wrote:
....I am primarily interested in a Let Blanik L-23 or L-12 simply because I am flying an L-23 in my lessons and enjoy it quite a bit. If you have *any* desire to fly xc, do *not* buy the Blanik - unless you're guaranteed to land out at an airport and get an aero retrieve home :-). As the joy of flying is important, so is the joy (or lack thereof), of rigging and derigging. Also. it's much easier to get one helper to pull you out of that hay field than the 2 or 3 helpers that you'd need for the Blanik. Tony LS6-b "6N" |
#8
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Guys, great info ... many points I was not aware of regarding the
Blanik. Obviously I meant L-13 not L-12.. but anyway, sounds like I have quite a bit more to consider than I had initially thought. Also, I hadn't considered buying from over seas but this sounds like a good option also... except for perhaps finding a way to inspect the plane prior to purchase. I have not flown a 1-26 yet, only a Grob 103 and the Blanik, however I would have no problem with a 1-26 aside from the single seat. If I went that route, I suppose I could rent a glider when i want to take someone else flying. -tom |
#9
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In article
, vic20owner wrote: I have not flown a 1-26 yet, only a Grob 103 and the Blanik, however I would have no problem with a 1-26 aside from the single seat. If I went that route, I suppose I could rent a glider when i want to take someone else flying. In my opinion, and that of a lot of people I've talked to who are much smarter than me, this is the right way to think about a purchase. A lot of people say, "I want to buy a two-seater so I can give rides!" But look around you: how many glider owners do you see who own a two-seater? Odds are that it's a very small proportion. (At my club the number has been either 1 or 0 since I joined, as compared to perhaps a dozen single-seaters.) What's the point of buying your own glider? Obviously individual reasons vary, but it's typically so you can take it places, so you can fly it cross country, so you can stay up as long as you want (and as long as the weather allows) without someone telling you that your hour is up, and so you can have something that's nicer than what your local club or glider rental has to offer. What happens when you take a passenger? They're usually around your home field, so no need to take it places. They're rarely interested in flying cross country. Half the time they get uncomfortable (or sick) if you try to push past 30-60 minutes airborne. And knowing nothing about gliders, they'll probably completely fail to appreciate how much better your machine is than the club's. It's possible that your situation is different, of course, but if you're like most people, your best bet is to buy a good single-seater that you will enjoy for your solo flying, and rent a convenient two-seater for the relatively rare occasions when you take people for rides. -- Mike Ash Radio Free Earth Broadcasting from our climate-controlled studios deep inside the Moon |
#10
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vic20owner wrote:
....I am primarily interested in a Let Blanik L-23 or L-12 simply because I am flying an L-23 in my lessons and enjoy it quite a bit. If you have *any* desire to fly xc, do *not* buy the Blanik - unless you're guaranteed to land out at an airport and get an aero retrieve home :-). As the joy of flying is important, so is the joy (or lack thereof), of rigging and derigging. Also. it's much easier to get one helper to pull you out of that hay field than the 2 or 3 helpers that you'd need for the Blanik. Tony LS6-b "6N" |
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