Preheating schemes?

"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...
BJ - Here is an article you may find interesting concerning cold
starts:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Article-Busch.htm

- Mike

Interesting article. Then if I didn't have electricity and was out in the
boonies and the temp were below 30 I'd rig up a camper stove or catalytic
heater. If a 912 I'd remove the h2o and heat it, and the oil. If a
Taylorcraft I'd heat the oil to 200 degrees F.

Years ago,we would put some gas into the oil right after shutdown and
that would keep it loose for quite a while and then just burn off when
running again.Jim

James

That was called "dilution". There was a schedule for different
temperatures and it told you how much gas to put in oil prior to shut
down. It took about 30 minutes at cruise power to boil the gas out of
the oil next day. You could take off with diluted oil if you had oil
pressure in the green.

Oh the good ole days. Haven't thought about 'dilution' in years. Tnx
for bringing up )

Big John

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:29:40 -0500 (EST), (James
Lloyd) wrote:

Years ago,we would put some gas into the oil right after shutdown and
that would keep it loose for quite a while and then just burn off when
running again.Jim

For a cont. eng. with the oil tank,I have used a small 12 volt bev.
warmer and put it into the oil tank with an extention for the cig.
ligter plug to my car.It heats up the oil in about 6 mins.

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:24:17 -0500 (EST), (James
Lloyd) wrote:

For a cont. eng. with the oil tank,I have used a small 12 volt bev.
warmer and put it into the oil tank with an extention for the cig.
ligter plug to my car.It heats up the oil in about 6 mins.

Lloyd, very, VERY, bad practice. I deal with oils from a fluid power
standpoint, and the electric heaters for them have low "watts per
square inch" because of 2 things ... local high temperatures on the
element, and poor thermal conductivity of oil vs. water.

The 2 of these together cause oxidation of the oil which gets worse as
the heating element gets a buildup of partially burned oil.

And, if it does anything to (4 qts) of oil in 6 minutes, my guess
would be about 1 degree ... the calcs are not too hard with known
volume and wattage.

Typically from 10 to 30 watts/sq inch (lower for thicker, static
applications, higher for thinner, flowing situations) are used. Your
tank is static and probably has an SAE 50 fluid.

In contrast, long life elements (home water heater) are in the 40 to
70 w/in^2 range.

http://www.chromalox.com/Literature/TANK.PDF has much more than you
ever wanted to know.

If you use about 50 lbs/cu-ft and 0.5 BTU/lb/degreeF you will be
close.

The airplane you save may be your own ...

"Big John" wrote in message
...
Michael

Lots of suggestions. Here are more.

1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.

2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
Then
gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
fired
engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
prior
to take off.


Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
given too much.
--
Cheers,
don't bother me with insigniciciant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly



Still have one or two of the little cans of ether on my msc. shelf
in
shop. Can be bought at any auto parts store.

Small and light weight so can be thrown in baggage compartment and
forgotten until needed.

Big John


On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
wrote:

I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
pre-heating your engine.

One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust
into
the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the
a/c
doors open. - Mike

Model Flyer

What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while till
my caller called it a day.

On ether, could happen.

I just assumed that anyone smart enougah to get a license to fly would
be smart enough to not over do a good thing G

Big John


On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:21:16 -0000, "Model Flyer"
wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
.. .
Michael

Lots of suggestions. Here are more.

1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.

2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
Then
gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
fired
engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
prior
to take off.


Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
given too much.

"Big John" wrote in message
...
Model Flyer

What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while
till
my caller called it a day.


Did some FF rubber powered models when I was 12, however powered
flight started with C/L at 16 or 17 and graduated to RC when I
reached 30 or so, so I could say that I've been flying for 40 years.

Always wanted to fly 'real planes', however got glasses when I was 14
and only recently 86 discovered that I could fly with glasses. So far
Ive got about 13.5 hrs logged and a few more in the right seat.
Getting back to training this year, the group plane has been approved
for use for training through the a club at another field providing we
are all members of that club. So I can continue learning on the
aircraft I'm most likely to fly for the next few years.

Out of the blue I got a job offer at 54 and took it, so at least I
shall be able to pay for my flying without depending on the family
income.:-)
--
---
Cheers,
Jonathan Lowe.
/
don't bother me with insignificiant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly
/
Sometimes I fly and sometimes I just dream about it.
:-)



On ether, could happen.

I just assumed that anyone smart enougah to get a license to fly
would
be smart enough to not over do a good thing G

Big John


On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:21:16 -0000, "Model Flyer"

wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
.. .
Michael

Lots of suggestions. Here are more.

1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.

2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
Then
gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
fired
engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
prior
to take off.


Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
given too much.

Model Flyer

Started with the dime store and Jimmy Allen ones and then a Wakefield
(sp) rubber FF. Then Quaker Flash and Zipper (with Brown Jr) with
which I won the annual contest in my home town in southern Iowa. Had
recovered bird and it was sitting next to car when my 'good buddy'
launched and did a loop and crashed into my bird cutting it in half. I
rebuilt for next year with an Ohlson 60 and enlarged it to half a
Sailplane size. Next year at first contest in Des Moines, made a 3
second motor run test and caught a thermal and it was gone. That fall
a farmer called. He had found in his corn field 28 miles away.
Nothing during WWII then C/L. Won the Salt Lake City 'D' speed with
an original (no rudder) McCoy 60. Raised four daughters and flew
Fighters. About 15 years ago got into R/C. Have a bunch now all over
my 'play pen'. Biggest a quarter scale P-51 copy of 'my' '51 (Kathie
Kay).

Had cataract taken out several months ago and not seeing good. Hope to
get a good set of glasses (they've tried several times) next week so I
can read and fly again. Am driving like Wiley Post flew.

It's hell to get old.

Good luck on the GA flying. It's great.

Big John.



On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 23:32:17 -0000, "Model Flyer"
wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
.. .
Model Flyer

What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while
till
my caller called it a day.


Did some FF rubber powered models when I was 12, however powered
flight started with C/L at 16 or 17 and graduated to RC when I
reached 30 or so, so I could say that I've been flying for 40 years.

Always wanted to fly 'real planes', however got glasses when I was 14
and only recently 86 discovered that I could fly with glasses. So far
Ive got about 13.5 hrs logged and a few more in the right seat.
Getting back to training this year, the group plane has been approved
for use for training through the a club at another field providing we
are all members of that club. So I can continue learning on the
aircraft I'm most likely to fly for the next few years.

Out of the blue I got a job offer at 54 and took it, so at least I
shall be able to pay for my flying without depending on the family
income.:-)

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
wrote:

I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
pre-heating your engine.

One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
doors open. - Mike

When I had my rebel tied down outside I used a " Mr. heater" It's a
radiant heater that screws onto a BBQ tank. I built a box around just
the heater part out of aluminum and 2 galvanized furnace pipes coming
out of the top. wrapped it all up in reflective bubble pack
insulation. Just light it up stick a tube in each cowl inlet throw a
blanket over the cowl and wait 20-30 min. and the cylinders would be
warm to touch. Now that I have a hangar I can just plug in an electric
heater. I even have it on a timer so if I know when I'm going to fly I
can have the plane ready.
Drew