Mylar aileron and flap seals

I just did this on my LAK. Fidel showed me how he square cuts a tongue
depresser and then sands it to a chisel edge. Use it like a chisel to
remove the adhesive residue and it won't harm the finish.


"Evan Ludeman" wrote in message
...
On May 31, 8:25 am, Geoff Vincent
wrote:
On 31 May, 14:06, jim wynhoff wrote:









On May 30, 8:07 pm, JS wrote:

Of course, true STUDs develop power tools to do the job. Removing
ancient gelcoat can be fun!
Fuzzy, if you've put an S-seal in, you could take your time with the
Mylar, but best to just get it done. At least round one, anyway.
Jim

On Wednesday, May 30, 2012 4:22:47 PM UTC-7, BobW wrote:
You're a STUD!!!
Regards,
Bob W.

Thanks all,
JJ - Good to know. I thought that might be the case, Concept being a
catalyzed paint, but my worry is based on way too many years of using
non-catalyzed paints.
JS, Yeah, that was quick, but really scary. There was no evidence of
an S seal ever being installed, just mylars top and bottom. Believe
me, I will be very happy to finish this round of refinishing. I'm
going to celebrate by growing fingerprints again, since I've worn mine
off. Next year the tips and horizontal, and maybe the fuse in 2014.
Bob... uh...thanks?

Hi folks,

My question is at the other end of the seal's lifespan - how to remove
the tape adhesive residue from the wing once the Mylar seal has been
removed? My progress, mechanically, is about 300mm per hour and I
would really welcome some practical advice on how do this more quickly
and less painfully. Recommendations on chemical solvents or
proprietary products would be appreciated. The aircraft is a PIK 20B
superbly refinished with 2-pack polyurethane about 9 years ago.

Regards,

Geoff Vincent
Grampians Soaring Club
Australia

If the adhesive still has enough tack that removal is a problem, I
don't use chemicals, I use heat.

A hair dryer is sufficient (high setting). Heat the adhesive tape to
about 50C and peel. If you can put your finger tip on the mylar for a
couple of seconds, but not keep it there, that's the right
temperature. The right combination of peel angle (roughly 135
degrees), speed and heat will lift off old Tesa bonding tape with
little if any residue (clean that up with solvent). This is about 50x
faster than solvent.

Likewise, heat is your friend when it is time to apply new seals.
Sanding is completely unnecessary provided that surfaces are clean and
warm (at least 30C). That said, sanding doesn't hurt. If in doubt,
go back over the bond line after application with hair dryer and back
of a table spoon or wall paper seam roller (while warm).

-Evan Ludeman / T8