Hard to assemble glider

On Monday, July 21, 2014 1:59:16 PM UTC-6, Bill D wrote:
On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:40:50 PM UTC-6, HGXC wrote:

Hi







I fly a older Ventus and my glider wings are difficult to slide tight to the glider for pinning.







I have a 1 pin set up and start with my left wing. I keep my brakes open and flap in 3.







I can line up the inserted arm fine and line up the controls but, once I get to a couple inches it bogs down and is quite a workout for my wing man and me.







Any tips or suggestions on making this easier? I notice that even on the same glider type and model they can vary on ease of assembly.











Dennis



Two posts with good advice. Here's another.



It could be one of the spigots is hanging up - likely on the left wing. Using help from a couple of people on a calm day, try the fitting left wing first. If IT doesn't go on smoothly, the problem is with one of the spigots. Try gently swinging the wingtip an inch or so fore and aft while watching for the point where the swing is centered. That's the spigot that needs help. I found the left rear spigot of my N2C could barely be forced to engage. Replacing the "eyeball" bearing in the fuselage solved a similar problem.

I meant to say right wing first.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 11:40:50 AM UTC-7, HGXC wrote:
Hi



I fly a older Ventus and my glider wings are difficult to slide tight to the glider for pinning.



I have a 1 pin set up and start with my left wing. I keep my brakes open and flap in 3.



I can line up the inserted arm fine and line up the controls but, once I get to a couple inches it bogs down and is quite a workout for my wing man and me.



Any tips or suggestions on making this easier? I notice that even on the same glider type and model they can vary on ease of assembly.





Dennis

I've rigged my new to me Ventus B five or so times now. I rig it by the book with flaps as S and pin in airbrake hole. It has gone ok, better each time, and I think I have it figured out pretty well now. The main issue with getting the second wing on is to line up the main spar pin into the opposite wing hole. You can't line it up visually so you just have to feel for it from the wingtip. So, I get the drag pins and flap torque tube matched and inserted while I'm on the root, then go to the tip and feel for the spar pin hole and pin connection with the wingtip I don't even try to insert it all the way (sometimes that pops out the opposite wing), only just enough so that the tool can be inserted in the main spar pin holes, then lever the wings together. It only takes a slight pull on the tool and presto, wings are in.
It may be that you have yet to find the right fuselage and first wing height, you might try experimenting with that, but I'm not sure it matters that much if the wingspar is centered in the fuse cutout. Hope that helps.
Jim

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 1:14:07 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, July 21, 2014 11:40:50 AM UTC-7, HGXC wrote:

Hi







I fly a older Ventus and my glider wings are difficult to slide tight to the glider for pinning.







I have a 1 pin set up and start with my left wing. I keep my brakes open and flap in 3.







I can line up the inserted arm fine and line up the controls but, once I get to a couple inches it bogs down and is quite a workout for my wing man and me.







Any tips or suggestions on making this easier? I notice that even on the same glider type and model they can vary on ease of assembly.



An old trick that works with the gliders that use the pin in the end of the spar is to make a wedge that is glued onto the bottom of the spar box that supports the spar end just slightly below the perfect height when assembled. This sets one wing and the relationship to the fuselage. With that set, it is much easier to line up the second wing.
UH







Dennis



I've rigged my new to me Ventus B five or so times now. I rig it by the book with flaps as S and pin in airbrake hole. It has gone ok, better each time, and I think I have it figured out pretty well now. The main issue with getting the second wing on is to line up the main spar pin into the opposite wing hole. You can't line it up visually so you just have to feel for it from the wingtip. So, I get the drag pins and flap torque tube matched and inserted while I'm on the root, then go to the tip and feel for the spar pin hole and pin connection with the wingtip I don't even try to insert it all the way (sometimes that pops out the opposite wing), only just enough so that the tool can be inserted in the main spar pin holes, then lever the wings together. It only takes a slight pull on the tool and presto, wings are in.

It may be that you have yet to find the right fuselage and first wing height, you might try experimenting with that, but I'm not sure it matters that much if the wingspar is centered in the fuse cutout. Hope that helps.

Jim

At 17:14 22 July 2014, wrote:
On Monday, July 21, 2014 11:40:50 AM UTC-7, HGXC wrote:
Hi=20
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=20
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I fly a older Ventus and my glider wings are difficult to slide tight
to
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the glider for pinning.
=20
=20
=20
I have a 1 pin set up and start with my left wing. I keep my brakes
open
=
and flap in 3.
=20
=20
=20
I can line up the inserted arm fine and line up the controls but, once
I
=
get to a couple inches it bogs down and is quite a workout for my wing
man
=
and me.
=20
=20
=20
Any tips or suggestions on making this easier? I notice that even on
the
=
same glider type and model they can vary on ease of assembly.=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
Dennis

I've rigged my new to me Ventus B five or so times now. I rig it by the
bo=
ok with flaps as S and pin in airbrake hole. It has gone ok, better each
t=
ime, and I think I have it figured out pretty well now. The main issue
wit=
h getting the second wing on is to line up the main spar pin into the
oppos=
ite wing hole. You can't line it up visually so you just have to feel
for
=
it from the wingtip. So, I get the drag pins and flap torque tube
matched
=
and inserted while I'm on the root, then go to the tip and feel for the
spa=
r pin hole and pin connection with the wingtip I don't even try to
insert
=
it all the way (sometimes that pops out the opposite wing), only just
enoug=
h so that the tool can be inserted in the main spar pin holes, then lever
t=
he wings together. It only takes a slight pull on the tool and presto,
win=
gs are in.
It may be that you have yet to find the right fuselage and first wing
heigh=
t, you might try experimenting with that, but I'm not sure it matters
that
=
much if the wingspar is centered in the fuse cutout. Hope that helps.
Jim


I have never had a ventus ,but I had a discus for 10'years and a duo the
last
3 ,
Left first ,then the pin goes in part way against the parcel shelf ,put
that wing
on a stand and do not be tempted to move it.
Right wing second brakes closed but not locked
Use synthetic super lube on the pins

On the duo my syndicate partner and I use a imi wing lifter that has a gas

strut,he thinks the best assistance is a vicious dog to keep the helpers
away
,because opinionated glider pilot helpers can cause more trouble than help

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 2:00:15 PM UTC-4, Jonathon May wrote:
...opinionated glider pilot helpers can cause more trouble than help

Words to live by from RAS!

Dennis,
The pin is @ 10" long and @ 3/16" dia with one end turned down to a reduced diameter that fits the hole in the inner sleeve of the airbrake as well as the water caps. The length helps insure that you don't inadvertently leave it in the hole as it crosses much of the instrument panel when inserted. This pin and the alignment pin that helps bring the wings in the last 1/2" should have come with the glider. My trailer has a dedicated place for these tools inside on the left rear rail.

In a decade and a half of soaring I've somehow never ended up being involved in the assembly of a glass SH glider so could someone clarify something for me? By the sound of it the SH system uses a single pin to hold the wings together laterally and spigots extending out from each spar end that engage with fittings in the root of the opposing wing to take up the bending loads on the spars - much like a Glasflugel - but they don't include a rigging tool that draws the wings together the last couple of inches? Seems like an odd omission. I thought Grob was the only manufacturer that did something like that, though they do at least use those locking collars instead of a pin which does allow you to secure the first wing in so you don't have to worry about pushing it out when trying to slide the second wing home.

Very easy to make a "tool" to prevent the left wing from coming out while inserting the right wing. Just a block of wood cut the correct length and cut with a hole saw on one end to match the spar pin and rounded on the other to match the fuselage. Put the left wing in, insert the spar pin part way so that it does not extend beyond the left spar. Then put the tool in between the pin and the left side of the fuselage. Not needed if the plane is cleaned and lubed properly but can be helpful on very hot days.

All the comments should identify the glider!

PIK 20E with self rigging gear.

1. Wing alignment is crucial; root gap parallel.
Height of the wing tips must be right.
Make a height gauge to perch on the fuselage to show when the stands are
cranked to the right height

2. Tape the first wing in to hold it; you have to tape it anyway.

JMF

At 13:34 26 July 2014, Tim Taylor wrote:
Very easy to make a "tool" to prevent the left wing from coming out while
i=
nserting the right wing. Just a block of wood cut the correct length and
cu=
t with a hole saw on one end to match the spar pin and rounded on the
other=
to match the fuselage. Put the left wing in, insert the spar pin part
way
=
so that it does not extend beyond the left spar. Then put the tool in
betwe=
en the pin and the left side of the fuselage. Not needed if the plane is
cl=
eaned and lubed properly but can be helpful on very hot days.

On Saturday, July 26, 2014 5:25:41 PM UTC-4, firsys wrote:
All the comments should identify the glider!



PIK 20E with self rigging gear.



1. Wing alignment is crucial; root gap parallel.

Height of the wing tips must be right.

Make a height gauge to perch on the fuselage to show when the stands are

cranked to the right height



2. Tape the first wing in to hold it; you have to tape it anyway.



JMF



At 13:34 26 July 2014, Tim Taylor wrote:

Very easy to make a "tool" to prevent the left wing from coming out while

i=

nserting the right wing. Just a block of wood cut the correct length and

cu=

t with a hole saw on one end to match the spar pin and rounded on the

other=

to match the fuselage. Put the left wing in, insert the spar pin part

way

=

so that it does not extend beyond the left spar. Then put the tool in

betwe=

en the pin and the left side of the fuselage. Not needed if the plane is

cl=

eaned and lubed properly but can be helpful on very hot days.



Thanks for all of the advice. I flew yesterday and the glider went together with ease- I think the flap setting in S and pinning the air brake was a big factor but I cleaned and lubed the fittings as well.

Dennis