Rust in tight places

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:49:47 -0600, "Maxwell" #$$9#@%%%.^^^ wrote:


"stol" wrote in message
...

Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
assume that is a no brainer.

My bad.

over and out.

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Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.


Phosphoric Acid (Metal Prep) does just that - used as an "etch" in
auto-body work to give the primer some "tooth" as well as getting rid
of any minor surface "flask\h" rust. Makes Iron Phosphate.

This is the product I used
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-47233/Detail
Treated some rust areas in a truck bed under a bed liner. When I sold the
truck ten years later, the treated areas were still free of corrosion.

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 23:11:51 -0600, "Maxwell" #$$9#@%%%.^^^ wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:49:47 -0600, "Maxwell" #$$9#@%%%.^^^ wrote:


"stol" wrote in message
...

Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
assume that is a no brainer.

My bad.

over and out.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.


Phosphoric Acid (Metal Prep) does just that - used as an "etch" in
auto-body work to give the primer some "tooth" as well as getting rid
of any minor surface "flask\h" rust. Makes Iron Phosphate.

This is the product I used
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-47233/Detail
Treated some rust areas in a truck bed under a bed liner. When I sold the
truck ten years later, the treated areas were still free of corrosion.

Not bad stuff but expensive (relatively) and not good for getting into
the real close stuff in welded clusters. Not sure which of it's
ingredients are the active rust converter.

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 23:49:35 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:43:08 -0800 (PST), stol
wrote:

On Feb 5, 5:39Â*am, mhorowit wrote:
I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.

Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
rust.
I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
the last 1/8".

There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
use
a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike

get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
any better results any other way.

Ben
use a brass wire brush and Phosphoric acid - MetalPrep or Water
Softener Resin Cleaner - same stuff at about 1/4 the price.

Clare - I put a coating on part of my fuselage to get rid of rust
remaining after wirebrushing. How long should it take for this stuff
to dry? - MIke
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