Fueling from plastic gasoline containors

It is interesting to see all the replies, educating us... I often
wonder about where this knowledge came from... Being that I have only
been refueling my planes from plastic 5 gallon cans for decades, 40 to
60 gallons at a time, I guess from here on I'll just listen to the
experts do the explaining...

denny

Don't know your location, but if you never fuel except in humid conditions,
then you might be safe. It only takes one episode however.

The sion of an autodealer used gas to clean some parts. Did not make it to
his 17th birthday.

"Denny" wrote in message
oups.com...
It is interesting to see all the replies, educating us... I often
wonder about where this knowledge came from... Being that I have only
been refueling my planes from plastic 5 gallon cans for decades, 40 to
60 gallons at a time, I guess from here on I'll just listen to the
experts do the explaining...

denny

2.5 gal seems snall, like lots of trips to the gas station, but the
basics don't change...
Use a pad on the wing to protect the paint from grit on the bottom of
the can, cardboard is what I use, but rug, blankets, etc., will work
just fine...
Stand on something so that you are high enough for comfort and can see
the fuel coming up as the tank fills...
Hold one finger over the nozzle as you tip the can... Once the nozzle
is inserted you remove your finger and only then open the vent cap on
the can...
As long as you are leaning against the airplane as you open the wing
tank, uncap the can, etc., you don't have to worry about static
sparks... Your body acts as the ground strap that equalizes the charge
between the plane and the can...
Grounding the airplane won't hurt, but it won't help either...
Have you ever put gas in a lawn mower... Ever have one burst into
flames? The ariplane is just a big lawn mower - where the blades are
not expected to cut grass, though sometimes they do...

The local skydive airplane (high wing) pilot, built a wood cradle that
cradles the can so he doesn't have to hold onto it after tipping and
inserting the nozzle...

denny

I'm sorry but your airplane is not just like a large lawnmower. You dump
small quantities of gas into your lawnmower. The longer you pour the larger
the static charge. Pouring small qualities is safer than dumping an entire
can. Grounding the can, funnel and tank together DOES help. It prevents
that charge from building to the point of discharge and explosion.

You can also point to fueling a car as a NON-grounded application but you
couldn't be farther from the truth. Look at the UL or DOT label on the
hose. It MUST be a conductive hose meeting certain specs.

Remember the longer you fuel, the larger the charge. The more important
grounding becomes as well.

--
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot


"Denny" wrote in message
ups.com...
2.5 gal seems snall, like lots of trips to the gas station, but the
basics don't change...
Use a pad on the wing to protect the paint from grit on the bottom of
the can, cardboard is what I use, but rug, blankets, etc., will work
just fine...
Stand on something so that you are high enough for comfort and can see
the fuel coming up as the tank fills...
Hold one finger over the nozzle as you tip the can... Once the nozzle
is inserted you remove your finger and only then open the vent cap on
the can...
As long as you are leaning against the airplane as you open the wing
tank, uncap the can, etc., you don't have to worry about static
sparks... Your body acts as the ground strap that equalizes the charge
between the plane and the can...
Grounding the airplane won't hurt, but it won't help either...
Have you ever put gas in a lawn mower... Ever have one burst into
flames? The ariplane is just a big lawn mower - where the blades are
not expected to cut grass, though sometimes they do...

The local skydive airplane (high wing) pilot, built a wood cradle that
cradles the can so he doesn't have to hold onto it after tipping and
inserting the nozzle...

denny

A former student of ours had a fire refuelling an aiplane from a
plastic can. In Alaska. Cold, dry weather raises the risk considerably,
and an airplane recently landed may have more charge on it, too. Living
in Canada we regularly hear stories of fuelling accidents attributable
to static. Not too many years ago a guy got burnt when his coat,
rubbing on the wing, set off fuel fumes. How's that for being bit by
what you don't know?

Dan

I fuel my airplane about 3 times a month with about 40 gallons of
autogas. Plastic jugs are dangerous and a hassle if you need more than
5 or 10 gallons. If you invest in the right rig it is easy and safe to
self fuel. I saw an article (in Kitplanes?) a few years back about
building a little trailer with tank and pump. That would work for
anybody. If you have a pickup truck read on.

I carry my fuel rig in the back of my pickup and take it out when not
needed. A built-in toolbox tank is really nice but will cost you about
$300 just for the tank.

Recently I was visited by a representative of the County's Fire
Department Aviation Unit just after I finished fueling. My setup passed
his inspection and cost less than $500 for everything:

1) To carry fuel on U.S. Highways the container needs to be DOT
approved and labeled/placarded as flammable liquid. Failure to do so
violates Federal Law. I bought a refurbished 55 gallon closed head
steel drum that is United Nations and DOT approved for flammable
liquids. Cost me $25. Available free some places. Self adhering
flammable-liquid placards from Gemplers were 4 for $5.

2) Bought a 15GPM Fill-Rite 12volt transfer pump that is UL-approved to
pump gasoline. Cost me about $270 from Harbour Freight. It is designed
to mount perfectly into the top of a steel drum. I also purchased a 20
foot long anti-static fuel hose to replace the standard 12-foot hose
that comes with the pump for $25 from Northern Tool. Also added a
Northern Tool Goldenrod Waterblock Filter for $25. It gets all the
water out, traps particles larger than 5-10 microns and easily connects
between the pump and the fuel hose using 3/4" pre-threaded bronze or
galvanized pipe nipples from Home Depot for $5.

4) While at Home Depot I also got some gasoline tolerant pipe joint
compound, two 20 foot lengths of #12 stranded copper ground wire (green
insulated), some alligator clips for the ground lines and the pump
power connections to connect to the truck battery, a bronze ground
strap to attach the ground wires to the pump ahead of the filter. This
stuff was about $25. Also from Home Depot a good medium-sized
foam-type fire extinguisher (8A-70B rated) $35.

5) I strap the drum with attached pump permanently to a hand
truck/dolly using 5-foot nylon ratcheting strap ties and also use a
pair of 12-foot strap ties to secure the rig to truck bed tie-down
points. Cost for straps and dolly about $50. Also got a pair of ramps
made from 2x8 x 6-foot long boards that hook to the tailgate allow me
to wheel the drum up and down from the truck bed.

On days I want to fuel the airplane I wheel the empty drum/fuel rig up
into the truck bed and drive to a gas station just outside the airport.
I ground the rig to the gas station pump and my truck chassis and test
the gasoline for alcohol/ethanol using a Petersen $15 tester. I haven't
found any gas with alcohol yet but still always test. I pump between 35
and 45 gallons of regular into the drum depending on what amount I am
sure will completely fill the airplane tanks. I drive to the airplane,
hook-up the gound lines to plane, power lines to truck battery, pull
out my step ladder and top off the airplane as fast as the FBO could do
it. If there is any gas left in the drum after the airplane is full, I
pump it into the pickup fuel tank. It is much easier to move the drum
when it is empty and safer to keep it empty too.

In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.

In reality its a bit of a work to self-fuel but I save about $35 to $45
dollars every fill up. Much more important my 7:1 compression ratio
O-470 engine runs better on 80/87 octane. No lead fouled plugs and no
lead sludge in the oil. Oil analysis greatly improved since switching
to mogas. I'm Happy. Rig was paid for after 6 months.


Auto gas cannot be used unless you're flying a home built, right?

On 27 Feb 2005 12:42:42 -0800, wrote:

A former student of ours had a fire refuelling an aiplane from a
plastic can. In Alaska. Cold, dry weather raises the risk considerably,
and an airplane recently landed may have more charge on it, too. Living
in Canada we regularly hear stories of fuelling accidents attributable
to static. Not too many years ago a guy got burnt when his coat,
rubbing on the wing, set off fuel fumes. How's that for being bit by
what you don't know?

Dan

It's amazing how a charge can build up. Last summer I was at the MMV
flyin. It was hot and dry and I was taking in lot of water so I needed a
visit to the Port-O-John. While I was in there, a Bonanza taxied by and
blew a big prop blast over the row of cans. Instantly, the hair on my arms
and head stood up. Quite a charge!

Carl Ellis wrote:
On 27 Feb 2005 12:42:42 -0800, wrote:


A former student of ours had a fire refuelling an aiplane from a
plastic can. In Alaska. Cold, dry weather raises the risk considerably,
and an airplane recently landed may have more charge on it, too. Living
in Canada we regularly hear stories of fuelling accidents attributable
to static. Not too many years ago a guy got burnt when his coat,
rubbing on the wing, set off fuel fumes. How's that for being bit by
what you don't know?

Dan


It's amazing how a charge can build up. Last summer I was at the MMV
flyin. It was hot and dry and I was taking in lot of water so I needed a
visit to the Port-O-John. While I was in there, a Bonanza taxied by and
blew a big prop blast over the row of cans. Instantly, the hair on my arms
and head stood up. Quite a charge!

Imagine how this story could have ended with all the flammable gas
present in the row of cans. One spark...

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 17:13:07 GMT, "Cy Galley"
wrote:

I'm sorry but your airplane is not just like a large lawnmower. You dump
small quantities of gas into your lawnmower. The longer you pour the larger
the static charge. Pouring small qualities is safer than dumping an entire
can. Grounding the can, funnel and tank together DOES help. It prevents
that charge from building to the point of discharge and explosion.

You can also point to fueling a car as a NON-grounded application but you
couldn't be farther from the truth. Look at the UL or DOT label on the
hose. It MUST be a conductive hose meeting certain specs.

Remember the longer you fuel, the larger the charge. The more important
grounding becomes as well.

One thing this doesn't take into consideration.

"Grounding an airplane" to ground works when the fuel source is
grounded but does absolutely nothing for static discharge when fueling
from a can because it does nothing to equalize the charge differential
between the can and the airplane.

We need to realize that static electricity is like any other DC
voltage. It is "The potential difference" (the definition of voltage)
between two points and in the case of filling from a can one of those
points is not ground. One is the can and one is the airplane.

The static charge comes from the fuel flowing out of the can and the
process works like a Vandegraf generator. It does not come from
moving the can or swirling the gas in the can.

Once a solid fuel stream is flowing from the can to the tank and the
operator is against the metal airplane you have effectively reduced
the systems ability to build a charge.

Even with the underground fueling system, *IF* the proper procedure is
followed there will be no potential difference developed. HOWEVER in
the case of the underground fuel system the operator/owner has no way
of knowing if the user is going to touch the nozzle to the bare metal,
open the tank, insert the nozzle and maintain contact against the edge
of the metal take while fueling. The underground system also operates
and a higher pressure and substantially higher flow rate than pouring
out of a can, hence it would have a much higher potential for
developing a high potential difference were the hose not conductive
and the plane not grounded.

IF the source and destination are held at the same potential the
static can not develop.

If you are holding the can and touching the metal of the airplane the
electrons flowing out of the can with the gas, flow through the
airplane, through you and back to the surface of the can even though
it is plastic. Certainly it would be better if the can were
conductive but that doesn't usually seem to be a problem.
it takes very little conductivity to keep the charge neutralized, but
it does take some.

When filling from a can, I'd guess the worst possible conditions would
be holding the can up and pouring into an open funnel where the
operator holding the can is insulated from the plane

Normally you are in more danger when filling the plastic can at the
pumps than when pouring it into the airplane, unless of course you
hold the tank way up and pour through the center of the opening while
avoiding contact with both the airplane and can.

BTW, the ground to the plane from an underground system removes the
likely hood of a spark when initiating the fueling if procedures are
not followed.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com