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Leaning using EGT - Lycoming O-540 (Aztec)



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 2nd 05, 08:51 AM
Thomas Borchert
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Dean,

but how do I know that that
particular EGT is the highest reading. i.e. is it taken off an
individual exhaust outlet or further down the exhaust (i.e.
common/averaged reading).


You don't. But again: You are not looking for the highest value in EGT.
What you are looking for is the first cylinder to reach peak,
regardless of the value it is at. The Deakin columns make all this
clear (after a while...).
The only way to make sure is to install a multi-probe EGT instrument.
Actually, with your kind of engine, I would recommend having one.

But, as long as you don't have one, using the one probe you have will
put you in the ballpark.

--
Thomas Borchert (EDDH)

  #2  
Old August 1st 05, 08:40 PM
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Unfortunately, for a carb'd O-540 like that, having an EGT gauge isn't too
terribly useful for leaning in cruise. It *is* useful for progressive leaning during
a long climb. That is, note the full-rich, sea-level, max-power takeoff EGT and lean
during the climb to hold that (e.g. 1300).

For cruise, however, you'd be better off ensuring running at 70% or less, and
leaning as much as possible, all the while ensuring that CHT never goes above 375.
If it does, enrichen so it doesn't. If over 75%, enrichen to that same "full-rich"
EGT (e.g. 1300). Likely the O-540 will run with a few cylinders lean of peak, a few
at peak, and a few richer than peak when leaned fully to roughness. That's as good as
you can do... just keep the power at 70% or lower.

flame suit activated
-Cory

Dean wrote:
: On my first flight in the Aztec with a fellow pilot who was doing the
: flying, he stated to lean using the EGT (a recently installed
: Electronics International digital single probe device)to circa 1300 and
: no higher than 1350.

: The aircraft does not have a CHT.

: I am totally new to operating larger engines like the O-540 (no fuel
: injection here) and want to ensure I dont damage anything. I hear a lot
: of talk and hearsay about LOP/ROP leaning procedures.

: Like most owners, I want to operate my aircraft efficiently, but not to
: the detriment of engine reliability.

: Any advice is welcome.

: Regards,

: Dean


--

************************************************** ***********************
* Cory Papenfuss *
* Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
************************************************** ***********************

  #3  
Old August 2nd 05, 08:01 AM
Dean
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Cory,

This is what I was concerned about, letting the CHT go over 400 without
realising it, having no CHT installed. In cruise I am running less than
75% so this shouldn't be a problem. Instead of fitting an expensive
engine monitor I may just purchase a digital CHT so I can see what's
going on, however the panel space is pretty tight at present.

Dean

  #4  
Old August 2nd 05, 08:51 AM
Thomas Borchert
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Dean,

Instead of fitting an expensive
engine monitor


Expensive is relative here. The things are cheap compared to one (or,
in your case, two) engine overhauls.

--
Thomas Borchert (EDDH)

  #5  
Old August 2nd 05, 12:46 PM
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Dean wrote:
: Cory,

: This is what I was concerned about, letting the CHT go over 400 without
: realising it, having no CHT installed. In cruise I am running less than
: 75% so this shouldn't be a problem. Instead of fitting an expensive
: engine monitor I may just purchase a digital CHT so I can see what's
: going on, however the panel space is pretty tight at present.

Like I was trying to say before, for simple, crude engines like the O-540,
having a whole bunch of readouts probably won't do a whole lot of good. They'll be
all over the map and not much you can do about it.

That said, the first thing I did on my O-360 was install a CHT and EGT probe
for each cylinder. I didn't buy an analyzer, just the Westach gauge and a switch. I
ended up buying the "STC'd" kit, but in reality it's the same thing as the non-kit.
In fact, the rotary switch they supply is pretty cheap and has already become a bit
oxidized internally after 3 years. After switching, you have to wiggle it a bit to
make sure you've got really good internal contact. I'd like to replace it with a
better switch with internal gold-plated contacts.

Depending on how cozy you are with your mechanic (and its corollary of how cozy he is
with your local FSDO), I'd suggest something like this:
http://www.westach.com/images/showca...HT_Pointer.jpg
or maybe
http://www.westach.com/images/showca...8-Dual_CHT.jpg
or
http://www.westach.com/images/showca...al_EGT-CHT.jpg
to conserve panel space.

A rotary switch (all that the STC kit has, anyway) can be wired in to select
whichever jug you want to look at. That makes the primary cost simply that of the
probes. Like I said, I put multiprobes on mine, but in reality I rarely switch. I
found which one was hottest (right-rear, generally) and leave it on that.

-Cory

--

************************************************** ***********************
* Cory Papenfuss *
* Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
************************************************** ***********************

 




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