![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]() ORVAL FAIRAIRN wrote: In article FRkNe.264882$_o.217775@attbi_s71, "Cy Galley" wrote: The warning about using a lead pencil for marking is usually with regard to aluminum. Lead graphite will make cracks in aluminum. Soapstone is works for welding as it with stands the heat. Lead pencils are not lead, but graphite (carbon). If you mark, ay, an exhaust pipe with a lead pencil, you are introducing a localized high-carbon area, which the metal will absorb when it gets red-hot. This will cause localized stress concentrations, leading to cracks. An old friend related that he was looking at the exhaust pipe on a Lockheed Constellation and saw a crack shape "OK" on the pipe. Carbon absorption is the reason that good engine shops banish lead pencils from their shop. The problem with aluminum is that the carbon sets up a battery action with the aluminum, and subsequent corrosion. Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message ... I'm reading about welding. Here's an article about how to cut a 'fishmouth' joint (and I visualize clamping the tube in a vice, in the meanwhile making small marks in the metal), then the pre-cleaning (using an abrasive, another thing my A&P told me not to use when cleaning tubing) then the actually welding. On the other hand, sometime ago someone mentioned the harm that might occur if one were to mark on the metal with a pencil. In one case you're handling the material and putting in a nominal number of nicks and scratches; on the other hand I'm told not to mark with a pencil? What am I missing? - MIke Basically nothing but here's a couple of hints. I am not an expert but the first thing to buy is the Monster Garage's book, "How to Weld Damn Near Anything". It is by Richard Finch and includes alot of material on aircraft welding and tube fitting. It is a very good reference easy to read and lots of good clear pics. The other hint is that you can use a Sharpy brand marker to mark tubing. A Sharpy is the only thing Pratt will allow to be used on an jet engine case.It is also mentioned in the book for use on tubes. Frank M.Hitlaw Jakarta,Indonesia |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
4130 is not notch sensitive like Plexiglas or aluminum. The occasion light
scratch will not cause any problem. "Ernest Christley" wrote in message ... mhorowit wrote: What about all the scratches made by clamping it in the vice and using an abrasive to clean before welding? arn't those sources of 'stress risers'? - Mike You don't need to clean back any further than you will be welding. 'Scratches' should be melted away. Use a slightly worn out abrasive pad (sand paper on foam), or 120 or greater grit paper. It will give you a mirror finish. A 'scratch' has to be a significant depth into the parent material to be of consequence. 'Significant' in this case is a weasel word without definite meaning. The precise depth is different for various materials. Consult 43.13B for specific details. -- This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)." |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|