Polishing a Blanik L-13?

Another great one is Met-All. It's a little coarser than Nuvite or
Rolite, but works quicker to take of the "barnacles" that develop over
the winter months. A great way to take off the black residue from
polishing aluminum is to use a terri cloth towel or one of the car
washing mits with corn starch on it. The corn starch REALLY soaks the
stuff up. Be liberal with it!

Scott


wrote:

For a GREAT polish on aircraft aluminum try Nuvite. Go to their
website for info-- www.perfectpolish.com. You will need a good
electric buffer and some tome--but the results are unbelieveable.

Skip Guimond

On 2006-04-20, Papa3 wrote:
The thread on aluminum trailer painting prompted this question. I've
seen a number of Blanik L-13s in the "original" factory finish of bare
aluminum with blue trim stripes.

Be careful what you're letting yourself in for!

I used to have a half share in a half polished, half painted Cessna 140.
We used Nuvite on ours (it comes in several grades - you start off with
a coarse grade and finish with a very very fine grade that also
supposedly protects for a while). It was very, very shiny.

However, to keep it that way it needed doing once every month to 6
weeks.

The aircraft only was polished from halfway down the fuselage, the
vertical stabilizer and the flaps. It took 8 hours to get it nice and
shiny each time (but I think the result was worth it - it looked
beautiful - the finish was like a mirror).
I suspect just doing the wings of an L-13 would take at least this long.

--
Yes, the Reply-To email address is valid.
Oolite-Linux: an Elite tribute: http://oolite-linux.berlios.de

JC wrote:
On 20 Apr 2006 07:44:24 -0700, "Papa3" wrote:

The thread on aluminum trailer painting prompted this question. I've
seen a number of Blanik L-13s in the "original" factory finish of bare
aluminum with blue trim stripes. The aluminum is always dull and
mottled. Closer inspection suggests that the material is not the
typical 2024 surface finish and/or is not Alclad. Has anyone been
able to polish one successfully (successful meaning bright and shiny
and stayed that way for some time)?

Erik Mann
LS8-18 (P3)

I used 3M Brand Super Duty Rubbing Compound Part # 05954 on my L-13
and L-23. I used an inexpensive electric buffer. After buffing the
residue needs to be wiped off with a damp cloth. Worked well and
shined up nicely. I did not try to remove scratches with it, just
took out the dullness of the finish.


Our soaring club has (3) Blanik L-13's and I have found that eagle one
wax seems to last the best. I would not recommend using an aluminum
polish because the Blanik's are not made with aluminum. The metal
used on the Blanik's is DURUAL (Sp?) which has a lot of magnesium in
it. There is a clear coat painted over the metal and it is meant to
prevent exposing the metal to the elements. Once this coat is
jeopardized, the metal will tarnish to the elements in the air. This is
not like trying to polish a Cherokee 150 or something similar. You
should never rub through this. Of the three Balnik's we have one is
painted white and the other two are the original metal. The painted
white one seems to always look like it's clean.

Tim
Adirondack Soaring
Saratoga Springs, NY




BTW, there is no silicone in the product, so no problems if you choose
to paint it later. It is available at any good auto paint supply
store.