A hot start question

"chris" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi peoples.. Hopefully this is an easy one for you experts out
there...

Hot start on a fuel injected Lycoming commonly seems to call for
leaving the mixture at ICO and cranking.

The POH for the Arrow II (Lycoming IO-360-CIC) states for "Starting Engine
When Hot"

1. Open the throttle approx 1/2 inch
2. Turn the master switch ON
3. Turn the electric fuel pump on. * -- hand-written footnote says
"Will probably flood"
4. Put the mixture control in IDLE CUT-OFF
5. Engage the starter... When the engine fires, advance the mixture
control and move the throttle to desired setting.

That doesn't make any sense; it floods. I have better luck starting it
flooded, though, so I end up using the next section,
"Starting Engine When Flooded"

1. Open the throttle full
2. Turn the master switch ON
3. Turn the electric fuel pump OFF
4. Put mixture control in IDLE CUT-OFF
5. Engage the starter... When the engine fires, advance the mixture
control and [then] retard the throttle.

That gets us right to Scott's "that 3000
RPM-panicky-grab-the-throttle-quick-before-we-go-flying-into-the-next-tiedown-row
BS", but I finally got the hang of making it work.

-c

"gatt" wrote in message
...

"chris" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi peoples.. Hopefully this is an easy one for you experts out
there...

Hot start on a fuel injected Lycoming commonly seems to call for
leaving the mixture at ICO and cranking.

The POH for the Arrow II (Lycoming IO-360-CIC) states for "Starting
Engine When Hot"

1. Open the throttle approx 1/2 inch
2. Turn the master switch ON
3. Turn the electric fuel pump on. * -- hand-written footnote says
"Will probably flood"
4. Put the mixture control in IDLE CUT-OFF
5. Engage the starter... When the engine fires, advance the mixture
control and move the throttle to desired setting.

That doesn't make any sense; it floods. I have better luck starting it
flooded, though, so I end up using the next section,
"Starting Engine When Flooded"

1. Open the throttle full
2. Turn the master switch ON
3. Turn the electric fuel pump OFF
4. Put mixture control in IDLE CUT-OFF
5. Engage the starter... When the engine fires, advance the mixture
control and [then] retard the throttle.

That gets us right to Scott's "that 3000
RPM-panicky-grab-the-throttle-quick-before-we-go-flying-into-the-next-tiedown-row
BS", but I finally got the hang of making it work.

-c

This happened to an Arrow at KGKY (Arlington, TX) some time ago. The pilot
was used to flying with toe brakes; this one had only a handbrake. Chewed a
hole through a chain link fence and hit a car. They found one of the
propeller blades several days later imbedded in the roof of the fire station
1/2 mile away.

"Allen" wrote in message
...

That gets us right to Scott's "that 3000
RPM-panicky-grab-the-throttle-quick-before-we-go-flying-into-the-next-tiedown-row
BS", but I finally got the hang of making it work.

This happened to an Arrow at KGKY (Arlington, TX) some time ago. The
pilot was used to flying with toe brakes; this one had only a handbrake.
Chewed a hole through a chain link fence and hit a car.

That's unfortunate. I wonder how much of an insurance hit he/we will take
for something like that. The very first item in the "STARTING ENGINE"
checklist in the POH is:

1. Set Parking Brakes ON.

Managing the throttle and mixture while simultaneously applying toe brakes
and making sure you're not rolling forward would make me nervous. I amended
my run-up checklist to say "Verify no movement" immediately after setting
the throttle to 2000 RPM 'cause the last thing I'd want to do while
verifying mag drops and engine instruments is to look up and realize I'm
moving.

-c

On May 18, 5:05 am, "gatt" wrote:
"Allen" wrote in message

...



That gets us right to Scott's "that 3000
RPM-panicky-grab-the-throttle-quick-before-we-go-flying-into-the-next-tiedo*wn-row
BS", but I finally got the hang of making it work.
This happened to an Arrow at KGKY (Arlington, TX) some time ago. The
pilot was used to flying with toe brakes; this one had only a handbrake.
Chewed a hole through a chain link fence and hit a car.

That's unfortunate. I wonder how much of an insurance hit he/we will take
for something like that. The very first item in the "STARTING ENGINE"
checklist in the POH is:

1. Set Parking Brakes ON.

Managing the throttle and mixture while simultaneously applying toe brakes
and making sure you're not rolling forward would make me nervous. I amended
my run-up checklist to say "Verify no movement" immediately after setting
the throttle to 2000 RPM 'cause the last thing I'd want to do while
verifying mag drops and engine instruments is to look up and realize I'm
moving.

-c

That sounds good, but I would rather use my toe brakes when starting
and doing a runup. Why?? At least twice while doing a runup in an
Archer the park brake has mysteriously unlocked itself, leaving the
aircraft with the meat grinder spinning at 2000rpm to lurch forward
while I leap on the brakes

I used to use park brake but it just makes me nervous - at least with
leaning hard on the toe brakes I am sure it ain't going anywhere!

"Allen" wrote

They found one of the propeller blades several days later imbedded in the
roof of the fire station 1/2 mile away.

Whoa, there, back up!

That sounds like the "big fish" story. It gets bigger every time it is
told.

A half mile is way too far to be believable, if the prop is thrown from
ground altitude.

Two, three hundred yards, maybe. You would need to show me some
documentation for me to believe much more than that.
--
Jim in NC

I saw the pictures of that. 100 yards, maybe.




Morgans wrote:
"Allen" wrote


They found one of the propeller blades several days later imbedded in the
roof of the fire station 1/2 mile away.


Whoa, there, back up!

That sounds like the "big fish" story. It gets bigger every time it is
told.

A half mile is way too far to be believable, if the prop is thrown from
ground altitude.

Two, three hundred yards, maybe. You would need to show me some
documentation for me to believe much more than that.