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#1
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Slow down
wrote in message ... On Jul 22, 5:24 am, RN wrote: The tires on my Cobra trailer from the factory are marked 185R14C8PF (102/100N)LT They appear to be GT Radial Max Miler X Load Range D 1875 lb at 450KPA 65# cold They need to be replaced, and the local tire stores seem to be having an issue identifying the correct replacement. A brief web search has also been unsuccessful. Any advice on the correct replacement, or where to find the code for reading the markings would be appreciated. John I'm using Yokohama 185R-14 steel belted radial light truck tires. The model is Y356. I drive too fast for ST tires and these have worked well for 3 years. Discount tire sells them for about $100/ea. |
#2
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At 12:24 22 July 2008, RN wrote:
The tires on my Cobra trailer from the factory are marked 185R14C8PF (102/100N)LT They appear to be GT Radial Max Miler X Load Range D 1875 lb at 450KPA 65# cold They need to be replaced, and the local tire stores seem to be having an issue identifying the correct replacement. A brief web search has also been unsuccessful. Any advice on the correct replacement, or where to find the code for reading the markings would be appreciated. John Tyre marking decode... http://homepage.ntlworld.com/cattermole/tyres.htm |
#3
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On Jul 22, 8:24*am, RN wrote:
The tires on my Cobra trailer from the factory are marked 185R14C8PF (102/100N)LT They appear to be GT Radial Max Miler X Load Range D 1875 lb at 450KPA 65# cold Try tirerack.com - they have Kumho trailer tires that match what you have. I've used their semi trailer tires and found them to be acceptable, but I don't have any experience with the smaller ones. They list them for $ 80.00 each plus shipping. Ray Warshaw 1LK |
#4
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I'm in this game too -- trip to Uvalde coming up, cracks in the
sidewalls. Warning for others: two tire stores in a row have refused to put car tires on a trailer, and there is no such thing as a 185 70 R 13 trailer tire. Tirerack.com and local gas station here we come. Note Cobra also has a new maintenance sheet on their website emphasizing adjusting the brakes, inspecting the hub, and inspecting the brakes and replacing the shoes occasionally. John Murray encourages me to do this. Boy, it's going to be a fun weekend, but better than a blowout halfway to Uvalde. John Cochrane BB |
#5
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BB wrote:
I'm in this game too -- trip to Uvalde coming up, cracks in the sidewalls. Warning for others: two tire stores in a row have refused to put car tires on a trailer, and there is no such thing as a 185 70 R 13 trailer tire. But there is a 175/80 13 trailer tire. Slightly bigger diameter, but that gets the back of the trailer a little higher, so you don't drag as often. Tirerack.com and local gas station here we come. Note Cobra also has a new maintenance sheet on their website emphasizing adjusting the brakes, inspecting the hub, and inspecting the brakes and replacing the shoes occasionally. John Murray encourages me to do this. Boy, it's going to be a fun weekend, but better than a blowout halfway to Uvalde. John Cochrane BB |
#6
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I suspect that many of the failures involve heat build up due to low
inflation. A slow leak will do it. It's a good idea to use an infrared spot thermometer to "shoot" the tire tread and bearing hubs at each stop. Do it on the tow vehicle tires too. This may well provide advance notice of a slow leak or overheating bearings. They are available from about $10 (Harbor Freight and with a 1/1 spot) on up - - much more expensive when the heat range goes beyond 1000 degrees or so. For road tires, you should be seeing 200 F, so a high heat range meter isn't all that important. When checking tire temperatures, expect to see higher temperatures on the leeward side, the sun lit side, or the lower side of a cambered road. With even inflation, usually the spread won't exceed 30 to 40 F (but I seldom drive over 60 mph so YMMV). bumper zz Minden |
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