wanted: hangar door tips

"Jean-Paul Roy" wrote in message m...
How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
position?

J.P.
"Musky" wrote in message
...
Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.

My opinion only, of course.


Mine is a single piece 50 ft "garage-type" steel door with a
residential door and six residential windows in it. It is suspended
on cables and guided by two parabolic curved tubes. Every time
there's an earthquake slight alignment problems delvelop and the side
rollers take huge stresses and snap apart the sides of the building.
The side rollers attract dust and are high mtc. But it allows me to
have windows and a man-door which is nice. But for dependability I'd
have gone with an electric bi-fold if I had to do it over again.

pac

I've seen multiple overhead doors side by side that each runs on its own set of tracks. Once all the doors are open, the
vertical track portions of the doors that get in the way of the clear opening are removed via a couple of clips. The
open doors are fully supported by the overhead tracks still in place. You then re-install the vertical tracks when ready
to close the door.

--
Dan D.



..
"Jean-Paul Roy" wrote in message ...
How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
position?

J.P.
"Musky" wrote in message
...
Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.

My opinion only, of course.

On 14 Apr 2004 10:17:59 -0700, (Joa) wrote:

Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.

The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
(it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").

The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.

What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
in weather.

Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?

Thanks folks.

J oa

Well, I built a hangar at my home airport about four years ago. I
purchased a kit from a steel company (Miracle Steel or Miracle Truss --
sounds like a hernia aid g) and had it erected by local folk.

It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

Ron Rosenfeld wrote in message . ..
It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.

Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides which allow them to open further with a given
opening...

http://www.hi-fold.com/



--
Dan D.



..
"Craig" wrote in message om...
Ron Rosenfeld wrote in message . ..
It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 01:52:50 GMT, "Blueskies" wrote:

http://www.hi-fold.com/

Dig the photo of the hangar-house on the right, on the "Applications"
page!

all the best -- Dan Ford
email: (put Cubdriver in subject line)

The Warbird's Forum www.warbirdforum.com
The Piper Cub Forum www.pipercubforum.com
Viva Bush! blog www.vivabush.org

Thanks for the link. Very helpfull

Jean-Paul
"Blueskies" wrote in message
m...
Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides
which allow them to open further with a given
opening...

http://www.hi-fold.com/



--
Dan D.



.
"Craig" wrote in message
om...
Ron Rosenfeld wrote in message
. ..
It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only
time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.

"Blueskies" wrote in message om...
Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides which allow them to open further with a given
opening...

http://www.hi-fold.com/

They don't gain as much headroom as you think. By their own spec's,
the vertical height of the door opening will need to be nearly 30"
over the height that I would need. Besides, here in the summer time
heat and wind, a bifold is a PITA. It's too hard to regulate airflow
through the hangar.

Craig C.

On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:

Ron Rosenfeld wrote in message . ..
It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.


I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
would cost.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

My hi-fold was $3500 for 45 wide by 12' clear opening. That is just the cost of the frame, which then has the r-board
and metal exterior attached, not to mention the installation costs (hanging it, electrical hookup, etc.) It you have no
power a roller/track door is the way to go...

--
Dan D.



..
"Ron Rosenfeld" wrote in message ...
On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:

Ron Rosenfeld wrote in message . ..
It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.


I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
would cost.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)