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Marking sheetmetal



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 16th 06, 08:58 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
RST Engineering
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Posts: 1,147
Default Marking sheetmetal


"Don W" wrote in message
. ..

RST Engineering wrote:
Depends entirely on what tolerance you are marking/cutting/bending to. I
want my students to be able to cut/bend to ten thousandths accurately and
the only way to do that is to scribe.


If you can bend aluminum to a 1/10,000" tolerance you are the MAN. You
must have some really talented students.


That's not the English of it. Ten thousandths is far different from one ten
thousandth. Ten of the little thousandths rather than one of the tenth part
of a thousandth. 0.010 as opposed to 0.0001. Two orders of magnitude
difference. Get it?


A very fine tipped scribe
probably leaves a line in the Dyekem that is .002" wide. You would have
to measure it under a microscope to be sure.


An optical comparator would tell me quite easily.



or maybe you meant .010?? ;-)



That's what I said and what I meant. {;^0

Jim


  #2  
Old September 17th 06, 04:49 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Don W
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Posts: 52
Default Marking sheetmetal

RST Engineering wrote:
"Don W" wrote in message
. ..

RST Engineering wrote:

Depends entirely on what tolerance you are marking/cutting/bending to. I
want my students to be able to cut/bend to ten thousandths accurately and
the only way to do that is to scribe.


If you can bend aluminum to a 1/10,000" tolerance you are the MAN. You
must have some really talented students.



That's not the English of it. Ten thousandths is far different from one ten
thousandth. Ten of the little thousandths rather than one of the tenth part
of a thousandth. 0.010 as opposed to 0.0001. Two orders of magnitude
difference. Get it?


yeah, I got it the first time. Just having a
little fun with you. Was it good for you too?

That's why some people call it ten mils, or .010",
or... sometimes ten one thousands of an inch, etc.


Don W.

  #3  
Old September 17th 06, 02:32 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
.Blueskies.
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Posts: 249
Default Marking sheetmetal


"Don W" wrote in message ...
: RST Engineering wrote:
: "Don W" wrote in message
: . ..
:
: RST Engineering wrote:
:
: Depends entirely on what tolerance you are marking/cutting/bending to. I
: want my students to be able to cut/bend to ten thousandths accurately and
: the only way to do that is to scribe.
:
: If you can bend aluminum to a 1/10,000" tolerance you are the MAN. You
: must have some really talented students.
:
:
: That's not the English of it. Ten thousandths is far different from one ten
: thousandth. Ten of the little thousandths rather than one of the tenth part
: of a thousandth. 0.010 as opposed to 0.0001. Two orders of magnitude
: difference. Get it?
:
: yeah, I got it the first time. Just having a
: little fun with you. Was it good for you too?
:
: That's why some people call it ten mils, or .010",
: or... sometimes ten one thousands of an inch, etc.
:
:
: Don W.
:

How about 1 hundredth of an inch?


  #4  
Old September 17th 06, 02:37 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
JJS
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Posts: 41
Default Marking sheetmetal


"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...
I want to mark sheetmetal for bending.
Can't use a scribe because I'll weaken the metal.
Magic Marker is too thick.
Pencil doesn't show.
What do you use? - Mike

Word on the RV lists is that blue fine tip Sharpies are the way to go. For
some reason the blue ink lasts longer. Sharpies' lives can be extended by
injecting lacquer thinner with a needle and syringe once they start running
out of ink. Van's says that for a mark that needs to show through primer it
is ok to use an electric "vibrating" engraving pencil in spite of
admonitions against marking with a scribe.

Joe Schneider
Cherokee 8437R
RV-7 in the works



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  #5  
Old September 17th 06, 05:59 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Drew Dalgleish
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Posts: 143
Default Marking sheetmetal

On Sat, 16 Sep 2006 20:37:39 -0500, "JJS" jschneider@re
movecebridge.net wrote:


"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
.. .
I want to mark sheetmetal for bending.
Can't use a scribe because I'll weaken the metal.
Magic Marker is too thick.
Pencil doesn't show.
What do you use? - Mike

Word on the RV lists is that blue fine tip Sharpies are the way to go. For
some reason the blue ink lasts longer. Sharpies' lives can be extended by
injecting lacquer thinner with a needle and syringe once they start running
out of ink. Van's says that for a mark that needs to show through primer it
is ok to use an electric "vibrating" engraving pencil in spite of
admonitions against marking with a scribe.

Joe Schneider
Cherokee 8437R
RV-7 in the works


Cumon Joe a shapie costs a dollar do we really need to make it last
longer ?

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  #6  
Old September 17th 06, 06:26 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Morgans[_2_]
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Posts: 3,924
Default Marking sheetmetal


"Drew Dalgleish" wrote

Cumon Joe a shapie costs a dollar do we really need to make it last
longer ?


They don't last very long when you forget and leave the cap off, do they?
g

There is a version of a marker that clicks like a retractable ink pen,
though, and they work pretty good. The problem is that the point is not
nearly as sharp.

Anyone ever try to sharpen a sharpie? It seems like there should be a way,
somehow.
--
Jim in NC

  #7  
Old September 21st 06, 10:15 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Ebby
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Posts: 29
Default Marking sheetmetal

I take needle nose pliers and pull the point out about an 1/8 in or so then
use my razor knife to repoint the wick. Works for awhile and the wick is
over an inch long so it still. hmmmm. well it still wicks!

"Ebby"
Hatz Classic s/n37
Camden, NY

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

"Drew Dalgleish" wrote

Cumon Joe a shapie costs a dollar do we really need to make it last
longer ?


They don't last very long when you forget and leave the cap off, do they?
g

There is a version of a marker that clicks like a retractable ink pen,
though, and they work pretty good. The problem is that the point is not
nearly as sharp.

Anyone ever try to sharpen a sharpie? It seems like there should be a
way,
somehow.
--
Jim in NC



  #8  
Old September 18th 06, 02:43 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
[email protected]
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Posts: 1,130
Default Marking sheetmetal


Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Cumon Joe a shapie costs a dollar do we really need to make it last
longer ?


Sure, it's only a buck. But it only quits at night or on the
weekend when the stores that sell Sharpies are all closed.

Dan

  #9  
Old September 18th 06, 03:53 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Peter Dohm
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Posts: 1,754
Default Marking sheetmetal


Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Cumon Joe a shapie costs a dollar do we really need to make it last
longer ?


Sure, it's only a buck. But it only quits at night or on the
weekend when the stores that sell Sharpies are all closed.

Dan

It also quits just out revenge because you failed to cap it securely--for a
ridiculously short period of time. :-(

The obvious solution is to stock spares.

Peter


  #10  
Old September 19th 06, 03:12 AM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
DonMorrisey
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Posts: 43
Default Marking sheetmetal


At the risk of beating this subject to death, use a sharpie, however a
Fine Point Sharpie is too thick. An Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie makes a
line approx 1 MM in width.

Don...

 




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