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#1
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I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my
hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early-morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. The problem is that my T-hangar doesn't have power. One of the other hangar renters had electrical service pulled to his hangar, and sublets 15A breakers for $15/month = $180/year, which is a bit much for me, considering my needs are for a dollar or so of electricity a year. Any suggestions other than either buying a small generator or paying the $15/month? I'm asking because the "power guy" complained last week when I ran a dropcord to a neighboring hangar for an hour last week to run the trickle charger... KB |
#2
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Kyle Boatright wrote:
I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early-morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. The problem is that my T-hangar doesn't have power. One of the other hangar renters had electrical service pulled to his hangar, and sublets 15A breakers for $15/month = $180/year, which is a bit much for me, considering my needs are for a dollar or so of electricity a year. Any suggestions other than either buying a small generator or paying the $15/month? I'm asking because the "power guy" complained last week when I ran a dropcord to a neighboring hangar for an hour last week to run the trickle charger... KB Put a static inverter in your car. -- J Kimmel www.metalinnovations.com "Cuius testiculos habes, habeas cardia et cerebellum." - When you have their full attention in your grip, their hearts and minds will follow. |
#3
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![]() "JKimmel" wrote in message ... Kyle Boatright wrote: I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early-morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. The problem is that my T-hangar doesn't have power. One of the other hangar renters had electrical service pulled to his hangar, and sublets 15A breakers for $15/month = $180/year, which is a bit much for me, considering my needs are for a dollar or so of electricity a year. Any suggestions other than either buying a small generator or paying the $15/month? I'm asking because the "power guy" complained last week when I ran a dropcord to a neighboring hangar for an hour last week to run the trickle charger... KB Put a static inverter in your car. -- J Kimmel www.metalinnovations.com Typically, I need power when I'm *not* at the airport. The preheater, for instance, needs 3-4 hours to heat the engine a reasonable amount. Go by the airport the night before, set the timer to turn on the preheater at 5AM, and when I get to the airport the next morning, the engine is nice and toasty. The trickle charger is worse, it probably needs power for 12 continuous hours to do a whole lot of good. I could install a piper style power receptacle on the airplane for cold starting, but I'd prefer to have a cheap trickle of 120v power.. KB |
#4
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Kyle Boatright wrote:
"JKimmel" wrote in message ... Kyle Boatright wrote: I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early-morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. The problem is that my T-hangar doesn't have power. One of the other hangar renters had electrical service pulled to his hangar, and sublets 15A breakers for $15/month = $180/year, which is a bit much for me, considering my needs are for a dollar or so of electricity a year. Any suggestions other than either buying a small generator or paying the $15/month? I'm asking because the "power guy" complained last week when I ran a dropcord to a neighboring hangar for an hour last week to run the trickle charger... KB Put a static inverter in your car. -- J Kimmel www.metalinnovations.com Typically, I need power when I'm *not* at the airport. The preheater, for instance, needs 3-4 hours to heat the engine a reasonable amount. Go by the airport the night before, set the timer to turn on the preheater at 5AM, and when I get to the airport the next morning, the engine is nice and toasty. The trickle charger is worse, it probably needs power for 12 continuous hours to do a whole lot of good. I could install a piper style power receptacle on the airplane for cold starting, but I'd prefer to have a cheap trickle of 120v power.. KB A 125 watts isn't a trickle. The battery you could take care of with a solar charger for RVs and other seldom drive vehicles for about $20. -- Jim Pennino Remove .spam.sux to reply. |
#6
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![]() I'm asking because the "power guy" complained last week when I ran a dropcord to a neighboring hangar for an hour last week to run the trickle charger... KB Tell the "power guy" to stick it.. I'm sure the airport manager and the power company would be interested in his selling of power at a premium. I'm sure the drop cord you ran for an hour, you had the permission of that hanger renter. I'm sure all of his connections from the 15amp service board to all the other hangers are up to code? BT |
#7
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"Kyle Boatright" writes:
I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early-morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. Well, you can handle the trickle with a solar array of some kind. The preheater, not quite. Engineering out loud: 125W @ 8H = 1KWH At 13.8 VDC; 72 Ah-H w/100% efficiency. Say 150 Ah-H at real world inverter levels. If only you had a 13vdc preheater, a deep cycle battery could do the trick. Hmm, you could use Qnty 9-10 13.8v batteries in series; 4 Ah-H Gel-Cells are not all that pricy. Looks to be ~~$15 each for 5Ah-H. Then a kludge to parallel them when charging off the array. This assumes the preheater is unswitched; a regular AC thermostat may not break DC correctly... -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
#8
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David Lesher wrote:
"Kyle Boatright" writes: I need a trickle of electrical power about a dozen times a year in my hangar. I need it for my 125 watt preheater if I'm taking an early- morning flight in the winter, and will use it for a .25A trickle charger if I've let the aircraft sit for more than a week or two. Well, you can handle the trickle with a solar array of some kind. I agree. If you can mount the solar panel so that it has about the same angle from horizontal as your latitude, and so that you can get to it occasionally to wipe the dirt off of it, it will work a little better. 125W @ 8H = 1KWH At 13.8 VDC; 72 Ah-H w/100% efficiency. Say 150 Ah-H at real world inverter levels. In a later post, David said he only needed to run the heater for about 4 hours. I haven't measured any of them, but I can believe that a really cheap inverter might only be 50% efficient. Tripp Lite claims that their 150 W inverter is about 89% efficient at full load [1], and another site [2] gives about the same numbers. So, to get 125 W of AC to the heater, the inverter will need about 140 W of DC input, or about 12.2 A at 11.5 V. (This is an average; the battery will start out at around 12.5 V and shouldn't be run much lower than 10.5 V.) This is 48.8 Ah at the four hour rate. Powersonic [3] claims that their 60.0 Ah/20hr gel-cell battery will do 48.0 Ah at the 4 hour rate. Flooded batteries often have a "reserve capacity" rating, which is the number of minutes they will run a 25 A load. Since your load is about half of this, you would look for one with a 120 minute or better reserve capacity rating. Interstate [4] says their SRM-24 will support a 15 amp load for 4.6 hours, so that would work. But wait! All of those ratings are at "room" temperature - 20 C for the gel-cell and 27 C for the flooded battery. The curves for the gel-cell battery show that its capacity at 0 C is about 90% of the 20 C capacity, and its capacity at -20 C is about 65% of the 20 C capacity. So, at 0 C you need a gel-cell with a nominal rating of 66.7 Ah/20hr or better, and at -20 C you need one with a nominal rating of 92.3 Ah/20hr or better. The flooded battery doesn't have curves like this, but looking at the two cranking amp ratings, the rating at -18 C is 80% of the rating at 0 C. If you ass-u-me that it follows a similar curve as the gel cells, the SRM-24 might still cut it at 0 C (3.9 hours), but for -20 C, you probably need to move up to the SRM-29 (6.4 hours at 27 C, derated to 4.0 hours at -20 C). None of these batteries can be taken lightly. The gel-cells will weigh 40 to 70 pounds and the flooded ones will weigh 50 to 60 pounds. If you have a choice, buy a battery that has a built-in handle. This becomes a consideration if you're taking the battery home to recharge it every time. You could put it on the solar panel, but it'd take a long time to charge back up at 0.25 A - something like 200 hours of full sun, or three weeks straight if you live in Phoenix. If you do use a battery and an inverter, keep the wiring as short as possible, but especially the DC wiring. I would cut off the cigarette lighter plug that comes with most small inverters and wire the inverter directly to the battery terminals. Anything that you can do to keep the battery warm would also help; a plastic battery box that isn't sitting right on the floor would help. For the extension cord from the inverter to the heater, use as heavy and as short a cord as you can. It's only about 1 A at 120 V, but since this electricity is relatively expensive, you don't want to waste it if you can help it. Hmm, you could use Qnty 9-10 13.8v batteries in series; 4 Ah-H Gel-Cells are not all that pricy. Looks to be ~~$15 each for 5Ah-H. Then a kludge to parallel them when charging off the array. This would work too; you don't lose anything in the inverter, but as you noted, it may be harder to control. With one big battery and an inverter, you can use a regular 120 V AC lamp timer to turn the heater on when you want it. With this setup, you'd probably use something like a spring-wound timer with a switch or relay rated for DC. For ten batteries at an average voltage of 11.5 V each, you'd need 1.09 A from each battery for four hours, or 4.35 Ah/4hr. This is at least a 7.0 Ah/20hr nominal gel-cell at 20 C or 0 C, or a 9.0 Ah/20hr nominal at -20 C. These batteries together will all weigh 60-65 pounds, but at least you can carry them two or three at a time instead of all at once. It would still take a few weeks to charge all of these batteries off of an 0.25 A solar panel. Either gel-cell option will probably cost around $150 for the batteries; the flooded battery option will probably cost around $80. The inverter should be about $30 or so. There are chemistries like NiCd and NiMH that have higher energy density, i.e. they don't hurt as much when you drop them on your foot, but they also have much higher dollar density as well. There are places that sell "solar kits" for cabins and other isolated applications. They usually have the solar cell(s), charge controller, mounting hardware, and some cable. Some of them include an inverter; you get to buy your own batteries for most of them. Googling on "cabin solar kit" or looking at the ads in "Home Power" magazine are good ways to find systems like these. Another possible source of power might be a wind generator, but this probably wouldn't be too practical unless it's really, really windy close to the ground; towers are expensive and you probably don't want to stick it too high up in the air at the airport. Maybe you could put it down low, by a busy taxiway, and convert prop wash into free juice... ![]() If what you're really after is heat, the best answer is often to burn the hydrocarbons fairly close to where you want the heat. That probably wouldn't work very well in this situation, though. I had some other creative ideas, like a weight on a rope that turned an alternator pulley, but that turned out to require way too much weight. Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money or other considerations from any of the companies mentioned. Matt Roberds [1] http://www.tripplite.com/products/pr...productID=2553 [2] http://www.solar-electric.com/solar_...r_electric.htm [3] http://www.power-sonic.com/techman.pdf [4] http://www.interstatebatteries.com/w...uct_marine.asp |
#9
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Check at Wally World to find batteries with the most AH per dollar.
Garden tractor batteries (about 20 AH) go on sale at like $15 each. As an alternate, you may even be able to collect used batteries from a car repair shop. Connect them in series and run the heater from DC to avoid the losses of an inverter. You don't even need a full 120 V if the heat demand isn't that high. Maybe better blankets and say 60 V for 12 hrs would do the job? Another approach is to use a Dragon heater which requires propane and a small amoount of 12 V power. |
#10
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"nrp" writes:
Check at Wally World to find batteries with the most AH per dollar. Garden tractor batteries (about 20 AH) go on sale at like $15 each. As an alternate, you may even be able to collect used batteries from a car repair shop. All batteries are not created equal. 'Starting' batteries are ill-suited to deep-cycle service. You can use "marine/RV/cycle" batteries if available. Note "Gel-Cells" [tm] come in both "float" and "cycle" versions; you'll want the 2nd. -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
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