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#71
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I am NOT against auto conversions. I'm against simplistic auto conversion bull****. *YOU'RE* the one who doesn't "get it". Barnyard BOb -- BOb, I think I understand your position , now more than ever. The thing I don't understand what about this particular conversion you feel falls short of the mark. It seems they have done their homework, are expecting realistic power levels of the machine, and have a good start on a number of hours on it. So, if you would, spell it out. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I'm not critical of what has been done to date. They have a good start.... There are issues that I would normally pursue, but I've had enough of "shoot the messenger" to last me a while. Especially when I watch John Stricker unable to get to first base with some good points. Time to let go until some jackoff starts flaming Lycoming and Continental beyond my capacity to resist once more. It's a pretty ****ed up world when it's OK to drop the hammer at will on certified engines with impunity while any auto conversion that can get airborne gets a free pass. Barnyard BOb -- |
#72
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Oh, and BTW, I'd rather work on 6 Caddy's than one damn Mercedes or BMW, and don't even begin to talk parts price comparison with me. $700 for a damn fuel pump in a Mercedes (like I just put in my brothers car)? Koni shocks being $150 a pair cheaper for a BMW than the factory shocks. I think not. And don't even begin to compare smoothness of the powertrain between one of those cars and a Northstar because they simply don't compare. Implementation my butt. I guess if you pay that much just to drive some German or Japanese car it's easy to convince yourself just how superior it is. John Stricker ******************************** chuckle chuckle, snort, chuckle. ! Amen, brother! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I've never known John Stricker NOT to have his ducks lined up in a nice neat row. What he has to say is waaay over every Wannbee pin head. g Barnyard BOb -- |
#73
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"Barnyard BOb --" wrote in message I'm not critical of what has been done to date. They have a good start.... There are issues that I would normally pursue, but I've had enough of "shoot the messenger" to last me a while. Especially when I watch John Stricker unable to get to first base with some good points. Time to let go until some jackoff starts flaming Lycoming and Continental beyond my capacity to resist once more. It's a pretty ****ed up world when it's OK to drop the hammer at will on certified engines with impunity while any auto conversion that can get airborne gets a free pass. Barnyard BOb -- But it WILL be fun, when the hammer does fall, and I Know you will be ready to defend the lycosaurs, to the last! I think some would place your cautious pessimism, as you shooting the messenger. Of course, some are not rational enough to even respond to. A comment like you posted above, about them having a good start, might serve to place your standing more clearly. On the other hand, if the subject is totally off base, I'm sure you won't hesitate to let everyone know where you stand with that! g |
#74
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On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:17:09 -0500, "John Stricker"
wrote: Clare, Yep, they really stink. That's why, for the last 6 or 7 years, they've been the basis of every IRL car. Not most. All. I'm sure that full girdle surrounding the crank was so much weaker than the old style main bearing caps. Cracks between the cylinders? Show me the SB. Better yet, just give me the number, I have all of them. You've obviously never seen how a Northstar block is designed and built. They may crack somewhere, but I'd be amazed to find one crack between the cylinders. The northstar is built in the same manner as most of the rest of the world's top engines. The full girdle main caps are common to Toyota's ZZ 4 cyl and their V6. I suspect the Lexus 8 is built the same way. Many other engines are built the same way. However, unlike most other "world class" engines,the Northstar is designated by GM as a non-rebuildable engine. No undersize crank bearings are supplied. The iron sleeves cannot be replaced OR rebored. The early model Northstars had pourous castings, which caused oil leakage THROUGH the lower crankcase. The rear main seals were problematic and have been retrofitted with a new press-in seal. The extended drain intervals recommended by GM (don't change oil until the oil condition indicator says so - 8-12,000 miles) has caused 2 serious problems with the engines. Seized oil control rings, which cause serious oil burning, and sticking oil pressure regulators (relief valves) which prevent the engine from producing oil pressure. The fix for the stuck rings is basically filling the cyls with carbon solvent, letting it sit for several hours, and vacuuming it out through the plug holes. Then you pray the cyl walls have not been scuffed by the stuck rings, or you are in for an engine replacement. The oil pump has to come off the front of the engine to repair the no oil pressure problem - assuming it was cought in time. According to GM, the cyl heads are also "disposable" as the hard powdered metal valve guides are reportedly non replaceable. Head gasket leaks are also not uncommon, and GM has revised the head torque spec and sequence. It's an interference engine too - and with overhead cams - I'm not a great fan of LONG timing chains after the 2.6 Mitso****ty fiasco. If repairing or replacing an engine, GM deems it MANDATORY to replace the composite intake manifold, as it is virtually impossible to effectively clean it and be sure there is no debris in it that will get sucked in and damage the new or repaired engine. The harmonic balancers on the early engine had a tendancy to shift, causing rough running. If and when a head cracks, or a gasket blows, the head bolts MUST be replaced (not sure if it is just because they are torque to yield, or some other phenomenon) and stripped threads are not at all uncommon.. On both head bolts and main saddle bolts. The starter, buried in the bowels of the engine, commonly succums to the heat, requiring removal of the entire intake system. One of my customers (in my current business- no longer automotive) is on his 3rd or 4th Caddy in the last 5 or six years. He has had at least 2 engine replacements under warranty and was joking with the service manager they were going to have to give him a researved parking space - the car spent as much time at the dealers as in his driveway. He's a died in the wool Caddy man, so just kept trading them in hoping to get a good one. Got an Escalade now. $8,000 CDN for a good used engine? Why not just shop EBay and take your choice of low mileage complete cars for the same amount? May as well go to the casino - it's a crapshoot - enough of a risk buying from wreckers who give a warranty on the engine (1 year for personal use, 90 days commercial) and there are NO rebuilt Northstars available in Canada. The major rebuilders won't touch them. How on earth did I ever find my two engines (one with a 4T80E attached) with wiring and computer for about $500 each? Maybe I should sell them to the Canadian market. Even a blind pig will find the occaisional acorn. As far as engine replacement if major repairs are needed goes, that's been a CADILLAC policy for almost 20 years, long before the Northstar came on the scene. It's a way to maintain high customer loyalty. Yea, make them think they are the ONLY one with a problem - and, look, we're giving (or selling, if you are off warranty) you a brand new engine!!. Not like those other guys that put in a rebuilt.. Ha!! Obviously, someone you know hasn't had good luck with them. That happens. Ask Unka Bob what kind of luck he has with GM products. That doesn't make them a bad engine and they're far more advanced technologically than the LS6. I like them so I play with them. You don't care for them, I'd suggest you stay away from them. Over the years I have not been a great GM fan - nothing against them - but I've had Mopars, Toyotas, AMCs, other assorted oddballs, and a couple of Fords. I had a 28 Chevy and a 35 Chevy, a '57 Chevy, and a '67 Nova. Now I've got a '94 TransSport 3800 and an '88 Chrysler 3.9 (Mitso****ty). The 3800 is a great little engine - pulls a WHOLE lot better than the 3.0 Ford, and appears to be at least as good as Ford's 4.0. Miserable son-of-a gun to work on though. (due to location and packaging - the engine itself is dead simple) I'm of the KISS persuasion. If I'm not racing, 2 valves are as good as 4, one cam as good as 4. Oh, and BTW, I'd rather work on 6 Caddy's than one damn Mercedes or BMW, and don't even begin to talk parts price comparison with me. $700 for a damn fuel pump in a Mercedes (like I just put in my brothers car)? How about several hundred dollars for a replacement fuel rail for a SEFI 3800 GM? A lot of other insane prices too - like the automatic level control compressor for the TransSport? Or the front sway bar? Or the MAF sensor? I get sticker shock every time I need a part for the Pontiac - I thought the Chryco parts were expensive. Every part I have required for both of them has been more expensive than for my old RWD Ford, or any of my Toyotas. They Toys all went over 300,00km without opening the engine. Or the transmission. Koni shocks being $150 a pair cheaper for a BMW than the factory shocks. I think not. And don't even begin to compare smoothness of the powertrain between one of those cars and a Northstar because they simply don't compare. Nothing beats an american 8 for smoothness and "Grunt" Implementation my butt. I guess if you pay that much just to drive some German or Japanese car it's easy to convince yourself just how superior it is. For the price of a Caddy I can drive some pretty nice Japanese machinery. Not as fancy as the caddy, and not as powerful, but gets me from place to place in comfort, and with a measure of reliability I have not experienced with any of my American cars - of any vintage. Now the Japs build some AWFULL junk too. I won't touch another Mitsu engined vehicle - The 1600 Colt, then the 2600 Chrysler LeBaron, and now the current 3.0 New Yorker have all had serious head and valve train problems. Never hit 120,000 KM with either of them without a serious infusion of time and cash. Pushing 250,000 km on the New Yorker now, on third set of heads. A Caddy may well have outdone this one, but I couldn't replace the heads on the Caddy for less than $300 Canadian. Wouldn't do it in an afternoon on my driveway either. Caddy was about the same price as the New Yorker when new - if the caddy wasn't fully loaded (and my Chrysler was). (didn't buy the Chrysler new, either) |
#75
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Unk,
I can be convincing. If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull****. Hey, I got you to buy that Buick!! I rest my case. John "running as fast as I fricking can now...." Stricker "Barnyard BOb --" wrote in message ... Oh, and BTW, I'd rather work on 6 Caddy's than one damn Mercedes or BMW, and don't even begin to talk parts price comparison with me. $700 for a damn fuel pump in a Mercedes (like I just put in my brothers car)? Koni shocks being $150 a pair cheaper for a BMW than the factory shocks. I think not. And don't even begin to compare smoothness of the powertrain between one of those cars and a Northstar because they simply don't compare. Implementation my butt. I guess if you pay that much just to drive some German or Japanese car it's easy to convince yourself just how superior it is. John Stricker ******************************** chuckle chuckle, snort, chuckle. ! Amen, brother! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I've never known John Stricker NOT to have his ducks lined up in a nice neat row. What he has to say is waaay over every Wannbee pin head. g Barnyard BOb -- |
#76
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Clare,
I appreciate your take on this, but some of what you think you know is just plain wrong. non-rebuildable engine. No undersize crank bearings are supplied. The Not from GM. Federal Mogul offers them, though, and numerous places will rebuild the cranks for about $200 US, exchange. There's a reason GM doesn't recommend undersize bearings and that is the cranks are not grindable without being heat-treated, which most won't do. What's economical for a rebuilder to do is different than what's economical for GM to do. If it costs them $200 in manufacturing costs to make a new crank, how can they afford to offer a rebuilt one? (no, they don't sell them for $200). Every component to rebuild the engine is available from GM. The cylinders can be bored slightly (.010" or 3mm, IIRC, but I'd have to look that up). Mostly, they don't get bored but they get honed oversized. BTW, give me one GM or Chrysler engine that the FACTORY offers a REBUILT crankshaft for. I don't know of any. iron sleeves cannot be replaced OR rebored. Just like 99% of the cast in place hardened sleeve designed alloy blocks available now. Again, not from GM, but the aftermarket can fill the bill quite nicely. Again, that's not true. They also almost never NEED to be bored. The engine I'm building now had 120,000 miles on it, showed 0 taper and 0 ridge. The factory hone marks were still visible. I had them cleaned up and put the block through the washer, spent a day with the dial indicator verifying straightness, and it's good to go. This is NOT unusual for a Northstar block, this is the norm from what I've heard from the guys that actually build these engines (one of them worked on the Cadillac LMP cars that used the 4.0L version of the engine). You can also get forged pistons from Arias and forged aluminum or steel rods from Eagle, if you like, at a cost that's comparable to other engines. They're not really necessary, though, unless you're running something over a 150 horse shot of nitrous or more than 8-10 pounds of boost from a supercharger or Turbos. BTW, the first year Northstar came from the factory with forged rods and crank, but the following engines used powdered metal rods (like the LS6) and a vacuum cast crank. The early model Northstars had pourous castings, which caused oil leakage THROUGH the lower crankcase. crankcase. The rear main seals were problematic and have been retrofitted with a new press-in seal. Not exactly. The girdles themselves were porous and when that was a problem, the entire engine was replaced. Also, they have changed the sealing procedures between the girdle and block as well as between the girdle and pan because many of the "porous casting" complaints were actually improperly sealed components from the factory. As you pointed out, though, those were the early models before '95. That was almost a decade ago, in model years. The rear seal changed designs because it was very difficult to get them to seal during a service replacement, they didn't leak from new. A new seal was designed that sealed better during a service installation. The extended drain intervals recommended by GM (don't change oil until the oil condition indicator says so - 8-12,000 miles) has caused 2 serious problems with the engines. Seized oil control rings, which cause serious oil burning, and sticking oil pressure regulators (relief valves) which prevent the engine from producing oil pressure. The fix for the stuck rings is basically filling the cyls with carbon solvent, letting it sit for several hours, and vacuuming it out through the plug holes. Then you pray the cyl walls have not been scuffed by the stuck rings, or you are in for an engine replacement. This was addressed by recalibrating the PCM to shorten the engine oil life. If the engines were used for primarily highway driving, there were few problems. City stop and go driving, which the engineers thought they compensated for with the software in the PCM, did cause the problems you're talking about. BTW, the ONLY time you got that kind of mileage on the oil indicator WAS if you were doing almost all highway driving. The computer compensated life times based on engine temperature, engine speed, calendar life, etc. I think there are 8 parameters involved and they simply got the programming wrong. The change oil indicator could come on at anytime between 2,500 miles and a maximum of 12,000 miles based on the parameters in the software. Another problem was that people use various quality grades of oil. Yes, technically they all meet a minimum standard. The Northstar is NOT a minimum standard engine, though, and, again, they got the programming wrong. Your description of freeing the stuck oil rings is correct, although a bit exaggerated, as far as it goes. (there was never enough top end cleaner used to "fill the cylinders". It would be impossible to do in any case given the layout of the Northstar intake.) What you failed to mention was that if the service procedure didn't fix the problem, the customer got a new engine. Virtually ALL of these failures happened while still under warranty. Again, you're talking about the early engines. The computer has since been reprogrammed with shorter oil service intervals. You're also only partially right on the oil pump relief valve. Yes, the service interval may have been a factor, but they also decided the relief valve was not robust enough and came out with a replacement oil pump. That pump, BTW, can be changed in the vehicle by removing the balancer and front cover, then four bolts and the oil pump comes out from the front. Pan removal is not required. The timing chains do have to come off, but if you follow the factory service manual you can remove and return them for service without re-timing the system. There is also a procedure in the service bulletin to free the stuck relief valve without removing any components, and it works about 1/2 the time. But the oil pump really should be upgraded to the new style since it has other improvements as well. That oil pump, BTW, costs about $85 at gmpartsdirect. Would you like to compare oil pump prices to some of the other makes you mentioned? According to GM, the cyl heads are also "disposable" as the hard powdered metal valve guides are reportedly non replaceable. This is true, but also not unique to the Northstar. Most any of the makes you already mentioned with DOHC direct actuation have the same limitations. If repairing or replacing an engine, GM deems it MANDATORY to replace the composite intake manifold, as it is virtually impossible to effectively clean it and be sure there is no debris in it that will get sucked in and damage the new or repaired engine. That's not true. Replacement is only called for if the technician has reason to believe foreign matter has entered the intake system. I just took mine apart and put it back together, but it's the early design that uses a magnesium housing with plastic, internal runners. These are not tuned as well as the later versions, but superior for my application because the all plastic manifolds have a large "soft plug" type design at the back that's made to blow out in case of a backfire. (also to be able to remove it to clean the manifold). These are problematic for engines that are going to be used in a boosted application, though, as the boost may cause them to leak or blow out, so the early ones are superior for my use. Head gasket leaks are also not uncommon, and GM has revised the head torque spec and sequence. Leaking head gaskets are quite uncommon, but they have changed design and composition to make them almost unheard of. The torque specifications were changed because technicians were pulling the threads out of the aluminum blocks. Head gaskets seem outrageously priced until you realize they come only with a new set of head bolts since those bolts are torque to yield, again, pretty much standard with aluminum block/head construction now. The pulled thread problem is there in ANY aluminum engine, even Lycoming and Continental. The Northstar, though, has a factory thread repair system available for the inevitable occurrence. The harmonic balancers on the early engine had a tendancy to shift, causing rough running. Wrong. There is a new harmonic balancer and it addresses what I consider to be one of the few design flaws of the engine. The harmonic balancer is held onto the crankshaft with a key and bolt arrangement like most all other engines. What's unusual is that the balancer pulls against a sleeve that is the actual operator for the gearotor oil pump, which is NOT keyed to the crankshaft in any way. The crank timing sprocket is between the two. You torque the bolt down, pulling the balancer in, clamping the sprocket and the sleeve with clamp pressure alone. What happened with the old style balancer is that sometimes it would not hold the proper clamp force and would allow the sleeve to slip. A new design balancer was released, with a new bolt and torque spec to address the problem. The balancer cost me about $48, IIRC. It's an interference engine too - and with overhead cams - I'm not a great fan of LONG timing chains after the 2.6 Mitso****ty fiasco. Nearly all high performance DOHC engines are interference engines. It's hard not to have one with a 4 valve, hemi head, running 10:1 compression and have reasonable valve lifts. The math just doesn't work any other way. Now tell me how many Northstars you can recall, or have your friends recall, that EVER had a failed timing chain that caused a problem? I won't hold my breath while you're looking, because it has a very simple and robust system that simply doesn't break. The starter, buried in the bowels of the engine, commonly succums to the heat, requiring removal of the entire intake system. Buried? It's in the vee below the intake. It takes a competent mechanic less than 30 minutes to remove a Northstar intake. On top of that, the starter is surrounded by the engine which runs at a fairly sedate 200°F as opposed to being on the side of a block within inches of 1300°F exhaust pipes. They're also protected from road debris, salt, and water. The starter location was a conscious decision by GM to avoid service problems to begin with. I can change a Northstar starter faster than I can change one on a small block Chevy, in most cases. Again, how many Northstars have you heard of that have had to have the starter replaced? May as well go to the casino - it's a crapshoot - enough of a risk buying from wreckers who give a warranty on the engine (1 year for personal use, 90 days commercial) And this differs from other engines just how, again?? and there are NO rebuilt Northstars available in Canada. The major rebuilders won't touch them. Maybe not from GM, but there are rebuilders here that offer them. If they're available here, they're available in Canada as imports. Even a blind pig will find the occaisional acorn. Should I comment on that, Clare, or are you relating your own personal experiences? Over the years I have not been a great GM fan - nothing against them - but I've had Mopars, Toyotas, AMCs, other assorted oddballs, and a couple of Fords. I had a 28 Chevy and a 35 Chevy, a '57 Chevy, and a '67 Nova. Not been a great fan of GM's, but you have nothing against them. At the same time you're pointing out as weaknesses of the Northstar things that are now industry common items, like having to replace the head bolts every time they're torqued (you forgot to mention the rod bolts in the Northstar are also torque to yield), interference design of the valves, etc. I'm of the KISS persuasion. If I'm not racing, 2 valves are as good as 4, one cam as good as 4. That's why you're not able to get 65-70hp per liter, unless you're racing. The Northstar does it in a car grandma can drive. For the price of a Caddy I can drive some pretty nice Japanese machinery. Different strokes for different folks. I personally drive a Riviera. To me, though, "pretty nice Japanese machinery" is an oxymoron. Especially when you have to go to the parts counter and pay the piper. How about several hundred dollars for a replacement fuel rail for a SEFI 3800 GM? A lot of other insane prices too - like the automatic level control compressor for the TransSport? Or the front sway bar? Or the MAF sensor? I get sticker shock every time I need a part for the Pontiac - I thought the Chryco parts were expensive. Every part I have required for both of them has been more expensive than for my old RWD Ford, or any of my Toyotas. They Toys all went over 300,00km without opening the engine. Or the transmission. Nest time, go to http://www.gmpartsdirect.com and order your parts. They ship to Canada. Fuel rail is $284.09 + frt (although I don't know why you wouldn't find one of THOSE at a salvage yard). They didn't show the sway bar, but any parts you can't find there you can email them for a quote. The ALC compressor is $262.18 + frt. The MAF is $102.79 + frt. I realize you're dealing in Canadian $$, but that's not as big a difference as it was 6 months ago (unfortunately for us). I don't know how those prices compare to other makes, but I know a Ford MAF is more than that for their light trucks. Some parts cost a lot, others don't. Specialty parts from GM often cost unless they're the subject of a service bulletin, then they're pretty reasonable as I've shown above. OTOH, how about pricing things like routine maintenance items for the imports and the GM/Ford/Chryslers? That's where they hang it in your butt, and if you've driven them you know it just as well as I do. 300,000 km? That's about 187,000 miles. I'm not impressed. My GM vehicles are just getting broken in at 150,000. My '83 service truck has over 500,000 miles (800,000 km) on it and we just had to put a rebuilt engine in it last year at 480,000. It still ran, but was lacking some power and starting harder than it used to. This is a 6.2L diesel that many deride as being powerless and unreliable. The Northstar is not a perfect engine. I've never found a perfect engine. It is the most technologically advanced engine available at the moment from a US manufacturer of US design. I can point out at least a half a dozen potential trouble spots on the engine that you didn't touch on, but that isn't the point. I've come to the conclusion that people generally get what they expect out of a vehicle or engine. Sometimes not, but most times. Take my old LeSabre for instance. We had it for several years. The wife drove it almost daily putting over 150K miles on it. We had to put a transmission in it at around 120K. Other than routine maintenance and a fuel pump, that was it. When we got a new car we sold the Buick to Unka Bob. Now Bob isn't shy about telling you that he and GM have never gotten along. Never. But both he and I thought that the Buck (not a mis-spell, the "i" fell off at some point in time and it was affectionately known as the Buck from that day forward) would be fine for him, based on it's past history with me. A friend and I drove it to KC to take it to him and pick up a POS Cherokee to fly home for an annual on a ferry permit. We went to Unks house and he took us to the airport. He literally did not make it the 20 miles home before the a/c compressor flew to hell. From that point on, it has been one thing after another that has failed on the car. I don't think he's been able to drive it 500 miles. I even offered to buy it back. We even talked about if I bought it back, we'd get it running long enough to take it to the auto auction, sell it, and use the money to get drunk for as long as the money held out. But Bob's on a quest now. He's going to find out what's wrong with it if it's the last thing he does. Then he'll sell it. I think it's a matter at this point of not letting the rotten SOB beat him. There's certainly no financial reason for him to keep after it, but he does. You might have noticed he's a little stubborn that way. You seem to think the Northstar is a greatly inferior engine and I think you're mistaken. But you're certainly entitled to your wrong opinion. 8-) It is NOT, and I repeat NOT, a suitable engine for aircraft conversion, IMHO, so I think I'll just let this thread die now without further comment. John Stricker |
#77
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On 23 Oct 2003 08:32 PM, John Stricker posted the following:
But Bob's on a quest now. He's going to find out what's wrong with it if it's the last thing he does. Then he'll sell it. I think it's a matter at this point of not letting the rotten SOB beat him. There's certainly no financial reason for him to keep after it, but he does. You might have noticed he's a little stubborn that way. Apparently, the Buck stops there... repeatedly. ---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website: http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/ |
#78
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"John Stricker" wrote: Unk, I can be convincing. If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull****. Hey, I got you to buy that Buick!! I rest my case. John "running as fast as I fricking can now...." Stricker +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ BULL**** RULEZ... is the motto of the lunatic fringe of auto conversion Wannabees that absolutely thrive on it here in RAH. From what I have observed, The "real deals" link up here on occasion... and then move on to wherever real experimentation takes place. They know that alternative engines are simply that and nothing more or less. Precious time is not wasted with non productive ****ing on Lycoming or Continental to bolster fragile egos and images. Barnyard BOb -- The more people I meet, the more I love my dog and George Carlin humor. |
#79
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Jay, have you calculated weight and balance yet?
Corky Scott Ya, thats how the nose got so long. That part is easy with the modeling software. I'm a little concerned because the design will have a very large moment of inertia in pitch and yaw, which on one hand will make it stable, and on the other hand will make spin recovery a challenge. Definitely a XC design. If you're interested, I'll e-mail you the model and you can fly it. BTW, thanks for reposting my message, it got lost in the car brand debate. |
#80
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On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 00:19:14 -0500, Barnyard BOb --
wrote: "John Stricker" wrote: Unk, I can be convincing. If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull****. Hey, I got you to buy that Buick!! I rest my case. John "running as fast as I fricking can now...." Stricker +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ BULL**** RULEZ... is the motto of the lunatic fringe of auto conversion Wannabees that absolutely thrive on it here in RAH. From what I have observed, The "real deals" link up here on occasion... and then move on to wherever real experimentation takes place. They know that alternative engines are simply that and nothing more or less. Precious time is not wasted with non productive ****ing on Lycoming or Continental to bolster fragile egos and images. Barnyard BOb -- BOb, this is what I don't understand: No one, to my knowledge, is saying anything other than that alternative engines are just that, alternatives. Why you persist in smearing any and all discussion or examples is a mystery to me. If this group were titled something other than Recreational Aviation Homebuilt, perhaps you'd have a valid argument, but it's not. Experimental homebuilders have been using auto conversions pretty much from the very beginning of the homebuilt movement. There is no technical reason why a modified auto engine can't or shouldn't be used as a replacement for a certified aircraft engine. The proof is in the many examples that are flying. Have there been bumps in the road? Sure. But does this mean that we should all just give up? Are you really advocating that? Not sure what you mean by the "real deals" who link up here and then move on, can you give an example? And as to the "BULL**** RULEZ", the subject heading refers to a V-8 conversion for a Seabee. It's a flying example of a successfull conversion and now has over 800 trouble free hours on it. Exactly what is bull**** about that? Corky Scott |
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