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Landing gear adjustment



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 14th 19, 06:02 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Default Landing gear adjustment

I just finished replacing a rubber roller in my Genesis-2 nose gear, which I won’t go into because most gliders only retract the main gear. After the nose gear was operating properly, I checked the main gear down lock by shoving forward on the drag links to check it didn’t move more than about 15mm, then snapped back into over-center..........I did this check with the fuselage in the trailer saddle. If the over-center did move more than 15mm, I would have adjusted the drive to give more down (1 turn at a time) until the down lock passed the check.
Next I retracted the gear and checked that the wheel retracted enough to be about 10mm above the closed gear doors. If the wheel is too close to the doors, the doors will open slightly, every time you hit a bump! Check this by pulling one door open and look at the distance between the other door and the wheel. What can I do if the wheel is too close to the doors? I must make the wheel retract more, but how can I do this? Adjust the linkage? No, No, Nanette! Dos is verboten! The adjustment made in the down and locked position must remain and not ever moved to get more up motion. So, what do I do? The up lock must be moved enough to make the gear retract more, by making a new retraction plate (aka, up lock). Most sailplanes have replaceable lock plates, 2 or 3 mm more up will normally do the trick.
What can I do if I the gear is retracting enough to be 10mm above the doors, but pulling as hard as I can, the gear won’t quite retract all the way into the up lock?
This is the situation I had. I filed the up lock using a triangle file............just a few strokes, then check for satisfactory retraction. The angle must be more than 90 degrees, about 110 degrees, works best to insure the gear handle remains in the locked position.
Did I miss anything?
JJ
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  #2  
Old August 14th 19, 08:14 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
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Posts: 1,889
Default Landing gear adjustment

On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 at 1:02:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I just finished replacing a rubber roller in my Genesis-2 nose gear, which I won’t go into because most gliders only retract the main gear. After the nose gear was operating properly, I checked the main gear down lock by shoving forward on the drag links to check it didn’t move more than about 15mm, then snapped back into over-center..........I did this check with the fuselage in the trailer saddle. If the over-center did move more than 15mm, I would have adjusted the drive to give more down (1 turn at a time) until the down lock passed the check.
Next I retracted the gear and checked that the wheel retracted enough to be about 10mm above the closed gear doors. If the wheel is too close to the doors, the doors will open slightly, every time you hit a bump! Check this by pulling one door open and look at the distance between the other door and the wheel. What can I do if the wheel is too close to the doors? I must make the wheel retract more, but how can I do this? Adjust the linkage? No, No, Nanette! Dos is verboten! The adjustment made in the down and locked position must remain and not ever moved to get more up motion. So, what do I do? The up lock must be moved enough to make the gear retract more, by making a new retraction plate (aka, up lock). Most sailplanes have replaceable lock plates, 2 or 3 mm more up will normally do the trick.
What can I do if I the gear is retracting enough to be 10mm above the doors, but pulling as hard as I can, the gear won’t quite retract all the way into the up lock?
This is the situation I had. I filed the up lock using a triangle file............just a few strokes, then check for satisfactory retraction. The angle must be more than 90 degrees, about 110 degrees, works best to insure the gear handle remains in the locked position.
Did I miss anything?
JJ


Sound logical.
Sometimes a slightly different handle can get the position a little further forward and avoid the leverage issue with your arm when you get further back.
Just a thought.
I once had an LS-6 that could either be fully retracted so gear doors would close, or go in over center(toggle) when down, but not both. Prior damage history showed that this was a long term issue with this ship. I had to make a new lock plate to get it to work right.
Sigh
UH
 




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