Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??

I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean.

Good so far. A tiny bit of tapping on each screw may be a good idea, or
may just be wasted effort.

Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

At that point stop! Get out your Dremel with one of those thin, fragile
little cutoff wheels and cut the slot a litle deeper and square it off at the
bottom before you try again. If it is a Phillips head, just cut a new flat slot
across the head.

Vaughn

Wipe the screw head with mek to remove the PB Blaster from the screw head.
Use a q Tip, and then SUPERGLUE THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT.
This really helps keep the slot together and stops camout. ALSO use the
correct screwdriver for the job. Straight slot screws need straight slot
screwdrivers.
Putting common screwdrivers in straight slots forces the screwdriver out
when you crank on it.

--
Have a great day

Scott


"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message
...

"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean.

Good so far. A tiny bit of tapping on each screw may be a good idea,
or may just be wasted effort.

Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

At that point stop! Get out your Dremel with one of those thin,
fragile little cutoff wheels and cut the slot a litle deeper and square it
off at the bottom before you try again. If it is a Phillips head, just
cut a new flat slot across the head.

Vaughn

"pbc76049" wrote in message
...
Wipe the screw head with mek to remove the PB Blaster from the screw head.
Use a q Tip, and then SUPERGLUE THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT.

That is a new one on me! Now that you mention it, I have heard others say
they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver to
reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.

Vaughn

"Michael Horowitz" wrote in message
...
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

Use a fresh replacable bit instead of "regular" screwdrivers - they grip
better and can be replaced when they wear. Set your self up so you can apply
a lot of force into the screw before you start turning - a speed handle
(looks like a "brace" (hand drill) ) lets you apply a lot of weight on the
end. For a pictu


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944271000&ver tical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCooki e=Yes
Craftsman 16 in. Speed Wrench
Sears item #00944271000 Mfr. model #44271

If the tube is reasonably solid, a hand impact driver will work real well.
You hit these with a hammer while applying a small turning force with your
hand - the trick is to not try to turn it too much. For a pictu
KD Tools SAE Impact Driver Set
Sears item #00999001000 Mfr. model #KDS1140

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?at=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999001000&vert ical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_Use BVCookie=Yes

Obviously, these can be found at other stores also...

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

I'm not a fan of overpriced tools but the Snap On phillips screwdrivers are
better fitting than any other Phillips I have ever used and rarely strip the
heads out.

I'll second the tapping and it also sometimes helps to tighten the screw
slightly before trying to remove it.

"Vaughn Simon" ... wrote in message
...

I have heard others say they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the
tip of the screwdriver to reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.


I've used a product called "Screw Grab," which is a slurry of some kind of
abrasive powder in oil. Same idea. Works pretty well.

Tom Young

"Tom Young" wrote in message
...

"Vaughn Simon" ... wrote in message
...

I have heard others say they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the
tip of the screwdriver to reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.


I've used a product called "Screw Grab," which is a slurry of some kind of
abrasive powder in oil. Same idea. Works pretty well.

Tom Young

I've had good luck with valve gringing compound

I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike