Polytone polishing

There are those who say a dope-like sheen can be obtained with Polytone if
it is buffed and polished. Others say this is not the case. No amount of
rubbing will make it shine.

I would love to hear from anyone who has obtained a nice sheen from Polytone
and learn what techniques were used.

I am absolutely NOT looking for an Aerothatne type gloss but rather, looking
to duplicate the apearance od a good butyrate dope job.

I have seen some very nice, and surprising old covering jobs in which
butyrate was applied over Polyspray. Of course most poeple will tell you it
will crack and fall off. Obviously that is not always the case.

Steve

"Steve Beaver" wrote in message
...
There are those who say a dope-like sheen can be obtained with Polytone if
it is buffed and polished. Others say this is not the case. No amount of
rubbing will make it shine.

I would love to hear from anyone who has obtained a nice sheen from
Polytone
and learn what techniques were used.

I am absolutely NOT looking for an Aerothatne type gloss but rather,
looking
to duplicate the apearance od a good butyrate dope job.

I have seen some very nice, and surprising old covering jobs in which
butyrate was applied over Polyspray. Of course most poeple will tell you
it
will crack and fall off. Obviously that is not always the case.

Steve

Steve,

My experience with Polytone on my Tri-Pacer was that I buffed it with a very
slow air operated buffer using a typical cleaner/wax product (don't remember
which one) that was very light on the abrasive content. It knocked out a
little overspray that I had without the danger of cutting the finish over
the longerons and stringers. I obtained that dope 'glow' of mildly polished
butyrate, but it didn't get glossy like a really well buffed dope job like
we had on our Monocoupe D145 (blindingly shiny Randolph Tennessee Red...you
could hardly see the tapes on that one). Keep a good wax on Polytone- I had
to keep the milkstool outside for a while, and it was stained by industrial
fallout on the top of the wings that I worked like a slave to get off, not
realizing how bad it was getting. I just thought I could wash it off, but
had stripped the wax from it apparently with previous wash jobs using the
wrong soap. Be careful about that too.

I never shot butyrate over Polyspray. I think that Stits' attitude was that
defeated the fire retardant feature of his product.

What are you building/rebuilding??

Dave

Steve,
I used Polytone on a Kolb Firestar (Ag Cat Yellow) and used regular rubbing
compund on all the upper surfaces. Don't rub too hard on the tapes or
anywhere the ribs or braces are under the fabric. You have to rub kinda hard
on the open spaces like between the ribs to get the gloss you want. Mine is
not anywhere near Aerothane, but it looks great. Then I use Mothers Carnabua
Wax on it.

I just finished a Rans S7 with Aerothane and I am done with Polyfiber
products, at least the color coats. The Aerothane stains easily, is
difficult to apply, because the mannual is wrong and you are left to remedy
your problems on your own. And it is extremely expensive, over $3000 on the
S7. The Poly Brush and Poly Spray seem to work fine and do the job getting
the aircraft ready for the color coat.

Dale

Snip
What are you building/rebuilding??

Dave


Thanks Dave. A Bucker Jungmann.

Steve
www.bucker.info

If you want that kind of gloss, why not spray it with Aerothane?
That would work a lot better than butyrate over polytone.

Richard


Steve Beaver wrote:

Snip
What are you building/rebuilding??

Dave


Thanks Dave. A Bucker Jungmann.

Steve
www.bucker.info

Because Aerothane looks like polyurathane (which it is) and is not
apropriate for a 1943 aircraft.

Steve

"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
...
If you want that kind of gloss, why not spray it with Aerothane?
That would work a lot better than butyrate over polytone.

Richard


Steve Beaver wrote:

Snip
What are you building/rebuilding??

Dave


Thanks Dave. A Bucker Jungmann.

Steve
www.bucker.info