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Drilling out old rivets questions?



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 12th 08, 01:12 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
John[_9_]
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Posts: 103
Default Drilling out old rivets questions?

On Aug 7, 6:35*am, "Fonz" wrote:
G'Day all.
I have a Cessna 310L cockpit which I will be converting to a simulator.
I wish for it to stay as authentic as possible, including method of
construction and cosmetics.
As such I have to repair/replace and modify some aluminium panels.
My question:
What is the best way to remove solid rivets?
(I have been told to drill lightly into the little dimple of either the
universal or flush rivet, and then use the shank end of the same size bit to
bend/peel top off. After that just pop it out.)

What size drills should I use?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is what I should be using for installing.
Should I use the same fro removal?
3/32 * *#40 drill * *Silver cleco
1/8 * * *#30 drill * *Copper cleco
5/32 * *#21 drill * *Black cleco
3/16 * *#10 drill * *Brass cleco

Hopefully this will be good practise for me, as one day I'd love to build an
RV.

Many thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Rob.
Melbourne Australia.


There has been a lot of good advice so far. I would add one element
that has worked well for me. When I want to be careful of not damaging
the surrounding material I will drill right through the rivet with a
smaller drill before drilling the head with the appropriate size. I
would use a #50 drill for a 3/32 rivet and for the other sizes use the
drill for the next smaller size rivet. If it is a larger rivet and I
really need to be careful I might drill it twice before drilling the
head off. This way I can check if my hole was centered properly, when
I due drill the head off it usually goes easier and I think the shank
is weaker and responds better to being driven out.

Another technique that is useful if you have good access to both ends
of the rivet is to pull the rivet tail out with a good pair of flush
cut dikes. You still have to be careful if the rivet was bucked
between the sheets but most often I find that just closing the dikes
around the tail causes the body of the rivet to pop out easily.

When you have the right size drill properly centered a universal head
or other protruding head rivet will spin right off. That's when you
know your technique is right.


John Dupre'
  #12  
Old August 12th 08, 11:42 PM posted to rec.aviation.homebuilt
Fonz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default Drilling out old rivets questions?

Thanks John.
Ihad a mate suggest the drill through thing and it worked great, as long as
it was centred. Did one big oops and will have to use a rivet 2 sizes
larger. As I said, I'd rather make the mistakes now than on a homebuilt.
Rob.

"John" wrote in message
...
On Aug 7, 6:35 am, "Fonz" wrote:
G'Day all.
I have a Cessna 310L cockpit which I will be converting to a simulator.
I wish for it to stay as authentic as possible, including method of
construction and cosmetics.
As such I have to repair/replace and modify some aluminium panels.
My question:
What is the best way to remove solid rivets?
(I have been told to drill lightly into the little dimple of either the
universal or flush rivet, and then use the shank end of the same size bit
to
bend/peel top off. After that just pop it out.)

What size drills should I use?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is what I should be using for
installing.
Should I use the same fro removal?
3/32 #40 drill Silver cleco
1/8 #30 drill Copper cleco
5/32 #21 drill Black cleco
3/16 #10 drill Brass cleco

Hopefully this will be good practise for me, as one day I'd love to build
an
RV.

Many thanks in advance for any advice provided.
Rob.
Melbourne Australia.


There has been a lot of good advice so far. I would add one element
that has worked well for me. When I want to be careful of not damaging
the surrounding material I will drill right through the rivet with a
smaller drill before drilling the head with the appropriate size. I
would use a #50 drill for a 3/32 rivet and for the other sizes use the
drill for the next smaller size rivet. If it is a larger rivet and I
really need to be careful I might drill it twice before drilling the
head off. This way I can check if my hole was centered properly, when
I due drill the head off it usually goes easier and I think the shank
is weaker and responds better to being driven out.

Another technique that is useful if you have good access to both ends
of the rivet is to pull the rivet tail out with a good pair of flush
cut dikes. You still have to be careful if the rivet was bucked
between the sheets but most often I find that just closing the dikes
around the tail causes the body of the rivet to pop out easily.

When you have the right size drill properly centered a universal head
or other protruding head rivet will spin right off. That's when you
know your technique is right.


John Dupre'


 




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