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#31
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On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 03:05:01 GMT, Ernest Christley
wrote: BarrenSands wrote: "David Koehler" wrote in message ... snipped He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it affected the resin at all. Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of the job) :-) Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup? Moisture is bad and sweat far worse as far as lay-ups. The glass fibers are very sensitive to moisture. Sweat not only has salt, but oil in it as well. That can affect the layer to layer as well as the internal lay-up strength. I clean the surfaces with Acetone and do the lay-ups while wearing surgical gloves. I was cautioned not to even touch the surface with my hands prior to lay-up and after cleaning. If it will be multiple lay-ups I use nylon or Dacron cloth as a peel ply to prep the surface for the next lay-up. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair) www.rogerhalstead.com |
#32
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 15:32:38 -0500, "David Koehler"
wrote: Greetings All, I'm building a composite fuselage in South Texas, with out the aid of air conditioning. Does anyone have some suggestions on getting the resin setup time a little longer. I promote it for 85 degrees, I've tried a hotter temperature but it doesn't set well. The temp in the garage is 95+. I've put the resin container in a bucket of water and it helps a little. I need to do a large piece and the only option I can see is scheduling myself at 3am in the morning. It would be nicer if I could do it during the day. Thanks for any help you guys can give. david Sounds like Vinyl Ester Resin. The only plane I know of that uses this is the Glasair series. They use Dow Derakane. I promote it a full gallon at a time but use no accelerator. I don't even use accelerator in the winter. I use one percent catalyst (MEKP) Never mix a working batch (catalyzed) of more than 100 grams/CCs at a time. The bigger the batch the shorter the pot life and jell time. Typically I work with 20 to 50 gram batches except when it's time to close something big. Then I get two or three helpers If you are working on one of the Glasair series the users group would be well worth your effort. http://www.glasair.org/ It does require a subscription. I think it runs $20 or $25 a year. My builder's diary: http://www.rogerhalstead.com/G3_files/GIII_Diary.htm There is a non frames version if you start from my home page. Good Luck, Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair) www.rogerhalstead.com |
#33
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"Ernest Christley" wrote in message . com... BarrenSands wrote: "David Koehler" wrote in message ... snipped He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it affected the resin at all. Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of the job) :-) Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup? It does not hurt a thing. The worst it can do is leave a little bubble of liquid. It usually just lays on top. If it concerns you, take some low pressure air and *carefully* blow it off. Barren |
#34
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"Ernest Christley" wrote in message . com... BarrenSands wrote: "David Koehler" wrote in message ... snipped He was concerned about groceries in the box, but the only thing I have in the one in the garage is beer.... It doesn't look like it affected the resin at all. Have a couple beers and I bet it will affect the resin (and the rest of the job) :-) Temps are also a little high here in North Carolina lately. I'm about done welding. Just gotta be sure to clean the sweat off the steel, then add a little oil. But what will sweat do to a layup? -- This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)." What my book says is to keep the glass cloth covered, and clean as possible. The site needs to be preped, by ruff sanding 80 grit, and cleaned with acetone before the cloth and resin goes on. You don't want oil where you put glass, on metal you have welded you may want to put zinc primer. Mine has blood sweat and tears all over. OH, which reminds me sand the joint after it has cured to keep the blood at a minimum, the soft white cloth glass ain't soft anymore. The gloves are a good idea to keep the resin off your hands, baby powder helps get them on. |
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