Removing oil galley plug

....or damage the ring gear which is just ahead of the plug ;( I didn't have
it with me last night, so I really don't know if I can get "straight on" the
plug to use the impact driver. Yep, it's 3/16".
Jim

"nrp" wrote in message
oups.com...


On Nov 6, 12:33 pm, "Jim Burns"
wrote:
I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?

The impact driver isn't going to hurt the case but the lack of control
from a swinging hammer just might cause you to strip out the hex in a
situation where a wrench handle in knowledgeable hands, wouldn't.

What is the hex key size? 3/16 inch?

NRP

If the 3/16 hex key looks or feels like it is slipping, you might try a
carefully filed-down 5 millimeter hex key driven in. Sandblast the
filed surfaces for a better grip.

You should be able to get that plug out. Any overhauler has to, to
clean the oil galleries.

I'm out of ideas now..........!

Lycomings have the temp probe in the oil screen or oil filter
adapter, at the back of the engine. I've never seen one in the front of
the case, perhaps since Lycoming specifies max oil temp entering the
engine, not halfway through it. Are you sure you need to remove that
plug?

Dan

It's a JPI probe install, secondary to the factory oil temp.
Jim

wrote in message
oups.com...

Lycomings have the temp probe in the oil screen or oil filter
adapter, at the back of the engine. I've never seen one in the front of
the case, perhaps since Lycoming specifies max oil temp entering the
engine, not halfway through it. Are you sure you need to remove that
plug?

Dan

Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
because...
1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
up with a new yellow/red line
2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
the other plugs.

-Robert, M20F

BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

Hmm... thanks Robert. At least some of the rumors I've heard can be
confirmed.
Honestly, thanks, because instead of fighting with it, I'll leave it until
the end and move forward with the rest of the install.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

I have one in my IO-360. It was a real &*($% to get out!!!! We finally
got it out with an "EZOut". Kind of like a nasty drill bit that grabs
it. It did not come out easily. As I recall though the plug has some
depth to it so you won't drill though it too quickly.
I initially thought I'd just try somewhere else after seeing how hard
it is. However, Lycoming said that was really where you want it
because...
1) Its very close to the factory probe temp so you don't need to come
up with a new yellow/red line
2) Its a low pressure area so a leak wouldn't be as nasty as some of
the other plugs.

-Robert, M20F

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

"Robert M. Gary" wrote in message
ups.com...
BTW: I can't remember if you're one of us from Sacramento or not. After
our initial failed attempt to remove the plug we took it to a guy who
teaches and lives next to Sacramento Community College Aviation (at
Exec Airport). He used the EZ-out from his fly-in driveway.
Email me if you want his info.

-Robert


Jim Burns wrote:
For those who have installed oil temp probes in the forward oil galley
of
their Lycoming engines, how did you or your A&P remove the 1/8" NTP
plug?
I've got one that is stuck tight and I don't want to booger anything up
trying to get it out. I've heard horror stories of people having to
drill
them out because they are stuck but I'm wondering if an impact driver
could
be used without causing any damage to the case.

Any experience or thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

Jim Burns wrote:
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. Getting anything "straight on"
to the plug is going to require pulling the front engine baffle, and even
then the ring gear may be in the way, so for now, it's going to wait while I
finish the rest of the install and collect more insight on the problem.
Jim

Yes, the plug is behind the starter gear for me. However, our A&P used
a 90 degree drill and had another guy put direct pressure on it, while
he ran the drill. I think the reason we failed the first time was that
we didn't put enough pressure on it. Not using enough pressure will
strip it quick.

-Robert

"Jim Burns" wrote in message
...
I've considered the hand impact driver as I actually own one, but I'm
tentative due to the aluminum case. Any positive/negative experiences?
Jim


I've pounded on a lot of aluminium cases on motorcycles... What you DON'T
want to do is twist the handle very far (1/8 turn max). And you would want
to start out moderately and kinda build up with the hammer blows - don't
start with a 5 pound sledge, eh?

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
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