Blew a Gasket

First time for me too. There were reports the dynamic, powerful A-65
sounded sick but it made plenty of power. Vern said, "It's poppin' and
crackin'. And Travis said the engine noise was "unusual." And Alan said,
"Sump'n not right about that." So we pulled the cowl and sure enough a
gasket at the exhaust flange had blown, or "blowed" as they say here in WNC.

We'll see how them "no-blo's" from Superior work.

In article ,
" jls" wrote:

First time for me too. There were reports the dynamic, powerful A-65
sounded sick but it made plenty of power. Vern said, "It's poppin' and
crackin'. And Travis said the engine noise was "unusual." And Alan said,
"Sump'n not right about that." So we pulled the cowl and sure enough a
gasket at the exhaust flange had blown, or "blowed" as they say here in WNC.

We'll see how them "no-blo's" from Superior work.



No-Blows work great! I cannot fathom why anyone would use the old
copper/asbestos "Sure Blow" gaskets when No-Blows are available.
Likewise cork rocker cover gaskets when the silicone rubber ones work so
much better.

"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message
news ...
In article ,
" jls" wrote:

First time for me too. There were reports the dynamic, powerful A-65
sounded sick but it made plenty of power. Vern said, "It's poppin' and
crackin'. And Travis said the engine noise was "unusual." And Alan
said,
"Sump'n not right about that." So we pulled the cowl and sure enough
a
gasket at the exhaust flange had blown, or "blowed" as they say here in
WNC.

We'll see how them "no-blo's" from Superior work.



No-Blows work great! I cannot fathom why anyone would use the old
copper/asbestos "Sure Blow" gaskets when No-Blows are available.
Likewise cork rocker cover gaskets when the silicone rubber ones work so
much better.

Thanks, Orval. Maybe you can answer this question for me: the A&P says
to install the two thin plate exhaust gaskets from Superior Air Parts (SA
part no. 632837, I think) on each head so that the half-round bead is out on
each side, one bead up and one down. But the guys at Sacramento Sky Ranch
say the two gaskets should be installed with the raised beads interlocking
and facing the exhaust stack flange. Which one is correct?

The trusty A&P is off with a group of boy scouts sailing in the Caribbean,
lucky guys. And get this --- somebody donated them the use of a Navajo to
get there.

Maybe you can answer this question for me: the A&P says
to install the two thin plate exhaust gaskets from Superior Air Parts (SA
part no. 632837, I think) on each head so that the half-round bead is out on
each side, one bead up and one down. But the guys at Sacramento
Sky Ranch
say the two gaskets should be installed with the raised beads interlocking
and facing the exhaust stack flange. Which one is correct?

I don't have a reference handy but I was once taught that Continentals want the
gaskets interlocked as Sac Sky Ranch describes and Lycoming wants the raised
beads opposite.

I think the No Blo gasket is the one with a a thick outer perimeter and a
circular inner portion.

The only gasket types I have ever seen blow out are the copper asbestos types.

John Dupre'

I've been using the no blow gaskets for a number of years and they seem
to work ok.
One thing to look for while changing them is the flange ears. After time
the ears tend to bend towards the head and no gasket will seal very well
if the mating surface is not flat. A hammer tap or a few on the ears
can get them where they should be if not a little bit away from the head.
Also, i use the copper permatex gasket sealer on the gaskets. It tends
to keep things sealed up pretty well.

Dave

JDupre5762 wrote:
Maybe you can answer this question for me: the A&P says
to install the two thin plate exhaust gaskets from Superior Air Parts (SA
part no. 632837, I think) on each head so that the half-round bead is out on
each side, one bead up and one down. But the guys at Sacramento
Sky Ranch
say the two gaskets should be installed with the raised beads interlocking
and facing the exhaust stack flange. Which one is correct?


I don't have a reference handy but I was once taught that Continentals want the
gaskets interlocked as Sac Sky Ranch describes and Lycoming wants the raised
beads opposite.

I think the No Blo gasket is the one with a a thick outer perimeter and a
circular inner portion.

The only gasket types I have ever seen blow out are the copper asbestos types.

John Dupre'

In article ,
" jls" wrote:

"Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message
news ..
In article ,
" jls" wrote:

First time for me too. There were reports the dynamic, powerful A-65
sounded sick but it made plenty of power. Vern said, "It's poppin' and
crackin'. And Travis said the engine noise was "unusual." And Alan
said,
"Sump'n not right about that." So we pulled the cowl and sure enough
a
gasket at the exhaust flange had blown, or "blowed" as they say here in
WNC.

We'll see how them "no-blo's" from Superior work.



No-Blows work great! I cannot fathom why anyone would use the old
copper/asbestos "Sure Blow" gaskets when No-Blows are available.
Likewise cork rocker cover gaskets when the silicone rubber ones work so
much better.

Thanks, Orval. Maybe you can answer this question for me: the A&P says
to install the two thin plate exhaust gaskets from Superior Air Parts (SA
part no. 632837, I think) on each head so that the half-round bead is out on
each side, one bead up and one down. But the guys at Sacramento Sky Ranch
say the two gaskets should be installed with the raised beads interlocking
and facing the exhaust stack flange. Which one is correct?

The trusty A&P is off with a group of boy scouts sailing in the Caribbean,
lucky guys. And get this --- somebody donated them the use of a Navajo to
get there.



I use Blow Proofs, which come in one assembly and can be installed
facing either way.

No-Blows work great! I cannot fathom why anyone would use the old
copper/asbestos "Sure Blow" gaskets when No-Blows are available.
Likewise cork rocker cover gaskets when the silicone rubber ones work so
much better.

This is my experience, too. Especially on the 4 bolt continentals, it's a
lot of work to drop the thing... so why wouldn't you go the extra $$ and
install the blowproof ones?

Which, of course, makes knowing how to install the thin CU ones unimportant!

Bill Hale A&P