trailer wheels won't turn

I have an older Komet trailer with newer axel. I parked the trailer
about 2 months ago and it was working fine at the time. Now the
wheels are immobile. I even tried to pull it with my car and the
wheels just dragged across the pavement.

In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake
shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.

Both wheels are locked so it would be hard to think that is a
coincidence, the problem possibly started forward in the system.
However the actuation rod that goes from the hitch to the axel is
loose/ can be moved fore and aft.

Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.

Also is there a way to temporarily disengage the brakes, I was
thinking i could take out the brake pads etc.

thanks
Chris
Atlanta, GA, US

chris wrote:
I have an older Komet trailer with newer axel. I parked the trailer
about 2 months ago and it was working fine at the time. Now the
wheels are immobile. I even tried to pull it with my car and the
wheels just dragged across the pavement.

In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake
shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.

Both wheels are locked so it would be hard to think that is a
coincidence, the problem possibly started forward in the system.
However the actuation rod that goes from the hitch to the axel is
loose/ can be moved fore and aft.

Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.

Also is there a way to temporarily disengage the brakes, I was
thinking i could take out the brake pads etc.

thanks
Chris
Atlanta, GA, US

Chris,

probably the levers in the brake that are operated by the cables and
engage the brake pads have become stuck.

You can try several things:

1. the trailer brakes are supposed to automatically disengage when
pushing the trailer backwards. If there is room behind the trailer to do
that operation, try to push back the trailer with your car. This
operation might be enough to loosen the brake pads.

2. If not successful, get a medium hammer and make a few strokes on the
mounting disc (accessible from underneath the trailer, about where the
cables get into the brake). This might loosen the mechanism.

3. if not successful, there is an adjustment mechanism on the backside
of the brake mounting disc, usually either a small hole where you can
operate a small cogwheel with the aid of a screwdriver, or a bolt that
can be operated with an open-end wrench. You will have to try which
direction looses the brake and which direction engages it. Try to loosen
the brake using that mechanism. To find out if this works it is best to
jack up the trailer so you can turn the wheel without having to move the
whole trailer.

4. You might want to combine actions 1 to 3.

5. When you finally succeed, I strongly recommend to take off the wheels
and brake drums to inspect and clean the inside of the brake. Usually it
is enough to blow all the dirt out using pressurized air, and maybe
apply some heat resistant grease (carefully) to the mechanism that is
operated by the brake cable. This is also a good opportunity to look at
the wheel bearings and to re-grease them.


You should get any parts for that axle at your Komet trailer dealer in
the US, however, if this should be a problem, I can assist you in the
process of ordering any parts you might need. There should be a metal
plate on the inside of each wheel (about where the cable runs into the
brake) stating the exact type of the brake.

Good Luck,
--
Peter Scholz
JE

On Jun 17, 5:45*am, chris wrote:

Also is there a way to temporarily disengage the brakes, I was
thinking i could take out the brake pads etc.

If the wheels are locked by the brakes it is very unlikely that you
would be able to remove the drums,.and you can't remove the shoes
without removing the drums. The first step in fixing the problem will
have to be getting the brakes to release.

You say the brake rod is free to move. Can you determine if the
cables are under tension? It may be possible to feel slack in the
cable outers. If the cables themselves are seized it may be possible
to free them by working them sideways at the same time as lubricating
them.

If the cables are slack then the problem must be internal to the
drum. If all else fails squirting penetrating oil in every possible
opening may help. That's a last resort thought as you may have to
replace the contaminated shoes.

If pushing it backwards, as suggested by Peter, does not work then try
rocking the wheels backward and forwards. One way to do that would be
to pull the trailer tongue sideways in opposite directions as hard and
quickly as possible.

Of course this all assumes that you left the trailer with the parking
brake set. If not then check to see if anyone you may have upset
recently has welded the drums to the back plates.

Good luck!

Andy

On Jun 17, 9:13*am, Peter Scholz
wrote:

probably the levers in the brake that are operated by the cables and
engage the brake pads have become stuck.

You can try several things:

1. the trailer brakes are supposed to automatically disengage when
pushing the trailer backwards.

If there is room behind the trailer to do
that operation, try to push back the trailer with your car. This
operation might be enough to loosen the brake pads.

With my car I pulled the trailer forward about 1m then back a meter in
reverse. It took quite a bit of RPM/horsepower to drag the tires
across the cement, I was hoping going in reverse would have unlocked
it too but it did not.


2. If not successful, get a medium hammer and make a few strokes on the
mounting disc (accessible from underneath the trailer, about where the
cables get into the brake). This might loosen the mechanism.

By "mounting disk" do you just mean the main metal part that is
exposed inward [through which the cable goes]?

thanks
Chris

On Jun 17, 10:42*am, chris wrote:
On Jun 17, 9:13*am, Peter Scholz
wrote:

probably the levers in the brake that are operated by the cables and
engage the brake pads have become stuck.

You can try several things:

1. the trailer brakes are supposed to automatically disengage when
pushing the trailer backwards.
If there is room behind the trailer to do
that operation, try to push back the trailer with your car. This
operation might be enough to loosen the brake pads.

With my car I pulled the trailer forward about 1m then back a meter in
reverse. *It took quite a bit of RPM/horsepower to drag the tires
across the cement, I was hoping going in reverse would have unlocked
it too but it did not.

2. If not successful, get a medium hammer and make a few strokes on the
mounting disc (accessible from underneath the trailer, about where the
cables get into the brake). This might loosen the mechanism.

By "mounting disk" do you just mean the main metal part that is
exposed inward [through which the cable goes]?

thanks
Chris

My Cobra trailer had been parked by the previous owner with the brakes
set.
Needless to say they rusted in that position. We were able to get it
to move
(finally) by backing off the brakes with an adjustment lever. There
should be
a port on the back side of the hub (the axle side of the wheel) with a
rubber plug.
Pull off the plug and you should see a toothed wheel in there. You
can move that
with a screwdriver to back off the brakes.

-- Matt

chris wrote:


By "mounting disk" do you just mean the main metal part that is
exposed inward [through which the cable goes]?


Yes. 'Back plate' (as mentioned by Andy) would probably be the more
precise term. This plate is quite strong, as it acts as the counter part
when braking the wheel, so it can stand a bit of beating...

Peter

*In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake
shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.

Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. *It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.


Sorry to hear about your bad luck. No suggestions, other than go
electric since it will prolly cost less to switch over than to fix,
and you get MUCH better brakes out of the deal. That work normal in
reverse. And don't freeze up when not used for a little while. And
don't need to be babied/greased/talked nice too etc. Should I change
my '10 reasons' to switch list my into '11 reasons' to switch to
electric brakes list? Nah, long term mechanical reliability is
already covered...

-Paul (eff surge brakes!) Hanson

As noted in earlier posts, most likely corrosion. Probably rust in
the cables due to lack of use and maintenance. Find something to spray
in the two cables.
WD-40, anything that claims to free rusted parts. Brake fluid if you
can get it in.
When you've got it clean keep it protected, especially as you live
where things go rusty. LPS-3 is my favorite rust inhibitor.
Jim

On Jun 17, 8:47*am, sisu1a wrote:
* *In the dark of night I could not figure out if somehow the brake

shoes are suddenly rusted in place somehow or if the shock in the
hitch is jammed.
Behind the actuation rod are the 2 cables that go to the brakes. *It
seems that the problem from this point or beyond/behind.

I suppose it is possible there is a problem with bearings or that
somehow the brakes stayed partially engaged on my last tow.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix it? / where to get parts.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. No suggestions, other than go
electric since it will prolly cost less to switch over than to fix,
and you get MUCH better brakes out of the deal. That work normal in
reverse. And don't freeze up when not used for a little while. And
don't need to be babied/greased/talked nice too etc. *Should I change
my '10 reasons' to switch list my into '11 reasons' to switch to
electric brakes list? * *Nah, long term mechanical reliability is
already covered...

-Paul (eff surge brakes!) Hanson

Paul

Maybe one day you'll be maneuvering your trailer by hand on a gentle
slope and unable to control it and it will run over you. Then those of
us who like override brakes won't have to put up with your list
anymore ;-)

---

Where I keep my trailer in relatively dry conditions everybody leaves
the brakes on, the larger fear is the occasional strong wind, even if
the trailers are also chocked and well jacked. I've had several pilots
from the UK tell me that it is common at their clubs is to keep the
brake off because of this chance of seizure.


Darryl

Peter's instructions are spot on. 1 & 2 might work. 3 WILL work even
if the problem is frozen cables or other parts of the mechanism, but
then you'll have to readjust the brakes to make them servicable for
driving. At least it should allow you to remove the drum for access to
the brake. I'm not sure it's corrosion in the brake mechanism that's
the problem so much as the shoes seizing/rusting to the drum over time
due to moisture. After too many first-flight-of-the-year sessions like
this, I no longer set the parking brake for long-term storage.

Chip Bearden (with experience on both Komet and Cobra trailers)
ASW 24 "JB"
USA